Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good saving Dan.

Just of note:

I didn't bother with the bolts and idlers after trying to order through Nissan (they required chassis no. etc). Spoke to their mechanics and parts people - they said they never bother replacing if they look in good condition. You can see if the thread looks bad. Unless they come loose then they shouldn't be subject to load anywhere near there tensile or endurance limit.

They have failed in the past. Bl4ck32's went soon after the cam belt was replaced, the bolt simply sheared off. Maybe it was overtightened... who knows. :)

Go to a different nissan that deals with the imports regulary, here in Adelaide both Main North and Grand Nissan rarely require chassis numbers.

Ben the thread can look just fine, but won't reveal if a fatigue failure is propogating.

Just go to an engineering materials supplier and tell them you need a high grade item of 8.8 minimum and take the old ones as samples.

process for removing the stud from the block ..

anyone got a nice easy way to do it ?

Well i welded a bolt onto it and then used a wrench, but that's mainly cause i snapped the threaded bit on the end off, whoops.

Other option is two bolts, screw them both and and lock them together then do as above.

Also multigrips work sometimes

Replaced both with bolts, best place i found was a local that deals with truck and tractor spares, plenty of high grade bolts!

Edited by Rudager
Well i welded a bolt onto it and then used a wrench, but that's mainly cause i snapped the threaded bit on the end off, whoops.

Other option is two bolts, screw them both and and lock them together then do as above.

Also multigrips work sometimes

Replaced both with bolts, best place i found was a local that deals with truck and tractor spares, plenty of high grade bolts!

sweet, thought o the welding option, wanted to see if there was an easier way ..

Quick question about the same thing... Just called:

Bearing Industries

Seven Hills Rd (cnr Station Rd) Seven Hills 2147

(02) 9674 4322

And and Idler and Tensioner is going to cost me $101.20 incl GST and freight. The catch is they only post through Aust Post, which means it is going to take a week to get here (Darwin) and my engine is going to be put back in the car Monday week. Is the Idler, Tensioner and Gates Belt one of the last things to go onto the engine?

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this gear up here sooner???

LOL @ Darwin shipping. Lived there a couple of years and always got the week to 6 weeks line on delivery from down south. :yes:

Funny that overnight is still overnight though......although I've had a lock bar take 2 weeks 40 km across Melbourne.

Troy, aren't all RB tensioners and idlers the same?

Want able to confirm it. So needing the car back on the road and runnign ASAP for the rally i just got one thru Nissan...only to run out of time and didnt change them...so they sit in a box. So will compare, anyone want to pay me $220 for mine before i check? ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...