Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi ive read the rb26 turbo upgrade section and ive settled on 1 of these turbos

i really want a quickish street car with the occasional motorsport/drag event . say 300awkw . more is good if its not at the expensive of lots of lag . im looking for something drivable .

obviously the -7 with .42 comp should be best but a few people have mentioned it comes on boost very severely with the -5 having a much smoother progressive power delivery which might be better for a daily driver

if anyone could shed any light on exactly when and how these turbos would come on boost it would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137067-gt2860r-7-or-5-response/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I always get mixed up between the 3 trims, -10, -7 and -5.

One of them is like the HKS GTSS, and will be the one you are after, will get you around 300kw at the wheels, very responsive. the next one up is a bit smaller than the 2530's, and will get you around 340kw at the wheels, still very drivable, probbaly a touch more lag if you can call it that. the next one up i don't know much about.

A smaller turbo normally comes on boost more progressively and smoother, doesn't feel as fast because it doesn't give you as much of a kick in the back.

GT2860R Turbo spec's (please choose -5 or -7)

GT2860 Turbine (-5) (Similar to the HKS GT2530) :

-Wheel: 53.85mm w/ 76 trim

-Housing: .64 or 0.86 ar (with wastegate divider)

GT28 Compressor:

-Wheel: 47.2mm inducer, 60mm exducer w/ 62 trim

-Housing: .60 ar

______________________________________________________

GT2860 Turbine (-7 similar to the R34 Nismo N1 Spec or HKS GTSS):

-Wheel: 53.85mm w/ 62 trim

-Housing: .64 (with wastegate divider)

GT28 Compressor:

-Wheel: 44.5mm inducer, 60mm w/ 55 trim

-Housing: .42 ar (not much smaller then 0.60 AR on the -5)

also i belive things like exhaust manifolds and cam gears will help make boost earlier ?

when would these turbos actually make full boost ?

hello,

-5's with Poncams,Dumps and Computer will get you your figures you are after.

Full boost on mine, without poncams come in at 4500RPM.

You wont get those figures with the ss(-9 )or n1(-7) unless you do some engine work.

The gt-rs(-10)_ for Rb26 will have to much lag for day to day driving.

Hope I have been of some help.

Cheers

Tekin :)

will cams make it come on boost later but have more top end ? or will the low end be the same ?

With the Poncams 260Degree with 9.15mm Lift responce is better through the low,mid and high ranges.

Boost comes in earlier around 4300RPM with the set up I have mentioned.

Other cams give you high end power figures only..Some mods to spring,retainers and even higher head gasket are needed with higher lift cams.This is not cheap, check out some pricing and you will see.

These cams are only good for top end power delivery,mid range is slightly higher than factory units

Poncams also work with standard computer,,,so in Melbourne if you get busted :no: with a Powerfc,

there is no problem installing your old computer back.Poncams are a bolt on and off you go unit.

But getting back to the original topic.............if you are just after some useable power gains.

Buy the -7 or -9 Turbo's get some dumps, throw in the Poncams and you can be expecting to get

280AW kw's with a good tune(even a standard computer)at 1.3Bar.

If after all this you want a little more power, then the N1's or ss Turbo's will not take you there.

(Unless you spend a bucket-load on the engine.) :laugh:

So the choice for me was obvious, I bought the -5's.

These will see me to 310AWkw's

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the -5 is the 2530 size and -7 is the GT-SS size :)

Yeah :wub::rofl: your wrong.

This is why I have a Warn,10% under my name.

Tuneagent listed them as you have stated Ronin 09.

How do you get that warning off? :laugh:

When do I get my 12 points back :(

Arkon,

i have the -10's fitted to my R32 GTR & got the HKS actuators as the -10's don't come with actuators.

i have plenty of bolt on mods but no cams or anything as yet. i got these turbo's because i have another engine & can put up with the Lag untill i put stage 2 in.

basically the -10 won't hit more than 0.5bar untill 5000 RPM, but when they come on, boy do they come on, 1.2, 1.3, whatever the're set to in an instant!!

I like em, big plans ahead!!

here's the mods at present with the -10's (laggy as hell)

Tommei S/S Extractors

Twin Garrett GT2860R (707160-10)0.6/0.64A/R (450hp models)

HKS Actuators

HKS Dump Pipes

HKS Front Pipe

Cat removed & 3” full back

Splitfire coils

NGK HITOP Iridium Plugs

APEXI FC & Hand Controller

600x300x125 FMIC (cut the front out to match the IC/8” Ducted air tubes to POD filters)

APEXI POD intake

NISMO FUEL PUMP

Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

SARD 720cc injectors (not yet installed)

Water/Methanol Injection

Wide band A/F meter

HKS Twin Plate Clutch

PAR Racing Products Gear Set, straight cut 1st, 2nd & 3rd Helical 4th & 5th, Beefed up Synchro shift.

Greaddy Prfec B Spec II Boost controller

Apexi RSM Speed Limiter cut & G Sensor

Arkon,

i have the -10's fitted to my R32 GTR & got the HKS actuators as the -10's don't come with actuators.

i have plenty of bolt on mods but no cams or anything as yet. i got these turbo's because i have another engine & can put up with the Lag untill i put stage 2 in.

basically the -10 won't hit more than 0.5bar untill 5000 RPM, but when they come on, boy do they come on, 1.2, 1.3, whatever the're set to in an instant!!

I like em, big plans ahead!!

here's the mods at present with the -10's (laggy as hell)

Tommei S/S Extractors

Twin Garrett GT2860R (707160-10)0.6/0.64A/R (450hp models)

HKS Actuators

HKS Dump Pipes

HKS Front Pipe

Cat removed & 3” full back

Splitfire coils

NGK HITOP Iridium Plugs

APEXI FC & Hand Controller

600x300x125 FMIC (cut the front out to match the IC/8” Ducted air tubes to POD filters)

APEXI POD intake

NISMO FUEL PUMP

Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

SARD 720cc injectors (not yet installed)

Water/Methanol Injection

Wide band A/F meter

HKS Twin Plate Clutch

PAR Racing Products Gear Set, straight cut 1st, 2nd & 3rd Helical 4th & 5th, Beefed up Synchro shift.

Greaddy Prfec B Spec II Boost controller

Apexi RSM Speed Limiter cut & G Sensor

edited

Edited by bnr#@
  • 1 year later...

Im sorry to pull up an old thread but....

im in the process of buying a set of either -5 or -7s (for some reason they are the same price??? so it warrants some research)

basically im buying the new turbos because Ive just joined the "ZOMG there goes my rear turbo" club.

so im running stk everything but a cat back exhaust.

eventually ill get another ECU, dumps, front pipe and search for about 300kws.

my question is, what turbos will be more responsive with minimum mods? -5 -7? also what will suit my 300kw application better?

cheers

-9's are also now an option. They are the closest match to the GT-SS. The compressor map is very nice indeed. Has the very close efficiency island at the 30+ airflow to the -5's , where the -7's are going to be pumping that sort of air with alot more heat. They appear to be a newer style? With the best of both worlds for those wanting to make the airflow over 250rwkw + with less effort than the -7's.

-9's are also now an option. They are the closest match to the GT-SS. The compressor map is very nice indeed. Has the very close efficiency island at the 30+ airflow to the -5's , where the -7's are going to be pumping that sort of air with alot more heat. They appear to be a newer style? With the best of both worlds for those wanting to make the airflow over 250rwkw + with less effort than the -7's.

With these -9s ( i have searched and have seen disco talking about them alot) and the HKS GT SS turbos will they reach 350 rwkw? I'm trying to build an awesome responsive std stroke 26, paying particular attention to getting the exhaust and inlet flow in the head right up (mostly exhaust as they are quite poor standard). My aim is 350 rwkw and i want to be able to make this on pump all day. I have all the parts just not the turbos and oversized valves at the moment.

Cheers

-7's are the most responsive out of them models. Garrett equivalent of the HKS GT-SS turbine, good for up to 350rwkw.

Speaking of which I got a set for sale, in spanking condition :P

the garrett -9 is actually the HKS GT SS equivalent, its the actual same turbo as the gt ss, the garrett and hks cartridge numbers are actually the same.

You can buy the HKS GTSS kit that comes with everything you need.

If you buy the Garrett Turbos, how much would it cost to buy all the other stuff seperately like gaskets, hoses, etc, etc that comes included with the HKS kit??? Anyone know??

ie: How much cheaper is it to buy Garretts and the other stuff needed vs buying the complete HKS kit?

Ive seen the HKS GTSS complete kit for ~3K - 3.4K.

Ive seen -7's for ~ 2.5K for two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...