Jump to content
SAU Community

HICAS vs No HICAS (Track use)  

34 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

H.I.C.A.S. = Help I Can't Actually Steer!

It was one of the first things I got rid of on my R34, you'd turn in and a moment later the arse would sorta feel like it "fell over". I found it very unnerving. Throwing the Sydneykid Whiteline kit in and getting rid of the HICAS was one of the best things I did.

There is a thread on here about installing GTRGeoff's lock bar, and there was also an article in High Performance Imports magazine a while ago about removing the hydraulic system from R32s.

The main thing on the track with HICAS is that with the rear end steering you tend to get a sort of "numb" feeling from the back of the car. When you are cornering hard, you tend to "feel" the back end of the car through your seat. You can tell when the back wheels (usually) are starting to slide. When HICAS engages, you tend to loose that feeling. If not completely, it certainly deadens the feeling. It is not that it makes it any harder to steer, you simply lose touch with the road.

thanks guys!!! after having driven the car for about a month now and experiencing the things you guys are talking about I think I will remove it...

now the only question is whats the difference between Sydneykid's Whiteline kit and GTRGeoff's lock bar...

I think I understand the lockbar but what is this Whiteline kit you are talking about?

The only time I can feel HICAS actually doing anything is just after you turn in to a fast corner, doesn't have to be a sweeper just any fast, wide corner.... just after you brake and turn in, the rear of the car feels like it is just about to snap out on you... after a little while you learn to ignore this 'sensation' and just attack the corner... its just for a fraction of a second that the rear feels a little light... worse thing you can do is correct for the slide you think is about to come...

The whiteline kit is as R33S2 describes and I would be looking at this before you worry about cancelling HICAS...

swaybars, springs/shocks, camber adjustment bushes, pineapples made a HUGE difference to the handling of my car... in comparison HICAS doesn't bother me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...