Why Does My Sub Box Have 2 +, 2 - Terminals

[123456]

hey guys i bought a sub the other day, its a kenwood 12", in a kenwood box, the box the sub comes packaged in. I can get the model number if itll be helpful. Anyway i just wanted to know why it has 2 +, 2 - terminals? Are two unplugged, and just a superfluity, or am i meant to have my left channel going to one set and right going to the other? Its a 1 ohm sub, with dual voice coils if that helps, the amp is a kenwood krc-81010 if that helps. Also its loud but i have to have the 12db boost and gain all the way up for it to sound loud

Thanks guys

[siksII]

  123456 said:

hey guys i bought a sub the other day, its a kenwood 12", in a kenwood box, the box the sub comes packaged in. I can get the model number if itll be helpful. Anyway i just wanted to know why it has 2 +, 2 - terminals? Are two unplugged, and just a superfluity, or am i meant to have my left channel going to one set and right going to the other? Its a 1 ohm sub, with dual voice coils if that helps, the amp is a kenwood krc-81010 if that helps. Also its loud but i have to have the 12db boost and gain all the way up for it to sound loud

Thanks guys

my box has two terminals as well, it is a dual voice coil sub, but at the moment the coils are wired up inside the box to one terminal, but often they give two sets of terminals so that you can connect one voice coil to each terminal so that there is more flexibilty with the amps you can use, ie. connecting one voice coil to each channel of 4 channel amp that you have bridged down to two.

[123456]

ahh ok, i tried bridging the + and - into the top two and running power off those into the bottom two and was wondering why it didnt make any sound difference

Guessing mine are also all hooked up inside the box

Sucks a bit, i was hoping it was only using 1 coil and wouldd be louder with two. Zzz $800 sub and amp combo and its not even loud >.<

[siksII]

if the sub is being supplied enough power and the box is a good size for the speaker/power/car then it should be loud.

there must be something wrong. make sure the sub is wired for the intended impedance you want to use from your amp.

sometimes it takes a while for the sub to loosen up. when i first hooked up my image dynamics sub it seemed very quiet, a few days later without any settings change it became slightly painful

[RANDY]

I'd guess that the box can take a DVC sub. If your sub is a DVC, then i'd assume that you should be using both sets of inputs.

[MBS206]

Pull the sub out, see how it's all wired up...

As for loosening up a sub, you're meant to play them at a lower volume for a few days, to allow them to loosen and NOT blow the cone.

[123456]

The box looks to sturdy to pull apart, but as it doesnt make any difference whether i have 2 or 4 terminals wried up, im assuming they've got the sub bridge to the top two terminals like siks said.

So, ill just keep using it on full gain with the 12db boost. Should you need equalizers to make the sub loud? I have loud off and bass on 0, because if i turn volume up with bass up on the EQ, the speakers make a noise like a whip cracking after a certain volume level is reached. I think this is because im still running them through the standard amps front and back.

I'll take out that metal plate behind it see if that makes any difference, maybe the boot will rattle less, its louder than the sub at the moment.

My other problem is, if i have gain full then my sub sort of kicks. It only happens when the car is off and ignition is off, and head unit is off. Just sort of kicks really fast, more gain louder the kicks. I've checked my ground and ran a 2nd one no help. The kicking goes ALOT quieter when i unplug one of the RCA plugs. So i was thinking of wiring up a power switch to the amp to stop it running my battery flat. Assuming this kicking interference isnt going to affect sound quality or level when the subs in play, because it only kicks when the head unit is off

Thanks

Thats alot i know

[Samon]

123456,

I know this thread is kinda old... but anyway

With a dual-coil Sub, as I understand it, you have a coil on the actual cone, and a coil on the chassis. If you were to bridge + to + and - to -, you would actually be restricting the power of the sub because the two coils would be cancelling each other out. try running it like this:

Connect the + of one coil to the - of the other coil. now connect the amp to the two unused terminals. (- from the first coil and + of the second one).

Cheers,

Sam.