Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i bought a sub the other day, its a kenwood 12", in a kenwood box, the box the sub comes packaged in. I can get the model number if itll be helpful. Anyway i just wanted to know why it has 2 +, 2 - terminals? Are two unplugged, and just a superfluity, or am i meant to have my left channel going to one set and right going to the other? Its a 1 ohm sub, with dual voice coils if that helps, the amp is a kenwood krc-81010 if that helps. Also its loud but i have to have the 12db boost and gain all the way up for it to sound loud

Thanks guys

hey guys i bought a sub the other day, its a kenwood 12", in a kenwood box, the box the sub comes packaged in. I can get the model number if itll be helpful. Anyway i just wanted to know why it has 2 +, 2 - terminals? Are two unplugged, and just a superfluity, or am i meant to have my left channel going to one set and right going to the other? Its a 1 ohm sub, with dual voice coils if that helps, the amp is a kenwood krc-81010 if that helps. Also its loud but i have to have the 12db boost and gain all the way up for it to sound loud

Thanks guys

my box has two terminals as well, it is a dual voice coil sub, but at the moment the coils are wired up inside the box to one terminal, but often they give two sets of terminals so that you can connect one voice coil to each terminal so that there is more flexibilty with the amps you can use, ie. connecting one voice coil to each channel of 4 channel amp that you have bridged down to two.

ahh ok, i tried bridging the + and - into the top two and running power off those into the bottom two and was wondering why it didnt make any sound difference

Guessing mine are also all hooked up inside the box

Sucks a bit, i was hoping it was only using 1 coil and wouldd be louder with two. Zzz $800 sub and amp combo and its not even loud >.<

if the sub is being supplied enough power and the box is a good size for the speaker/power/car then it should be loud.

there must be something wrong. make sure the sub is wired for the intended impedance you want to use from your amp.

sometimes it takes a while for the sub to loosen up. when i first hooked up my image dynamics sub it seemed very quiet, a few days later without any settings change it became slightly painful :)

The box looks to sturdy to pull apart, but as it doesnt make any difference whether i have 2 or 4 terminals wried up, im assuming they've got the sub bridge to the top two terminals like siks said.

So, ill just keep using it on full gain with the 12db boost. Should you need equalizers to make the sub loud? I have loud off and bass on 0, because if i turn volume up with bass up on the EQ, the speakers make a noise like a whip cracking after a certain volume level is reached. I think this is because im still running them through the standard amps front and back.

I'll take out that metal plate behind it see if that makes any difference, maybe the boot will rattle less, its louder than the sub at the moment.

My other problem is, if i have gain full then my sub sort of kicks. It only happens when the car is off and ignition is off, and head unit is off. Just sort of kicks really fast, more gain louder the kicks. I've checked my ground and ran a 2nd one no help. The kicking goes ALOT quieter when i unplug one of the RCA plugs. So i was thinking of wiring up a power switch to the amp to stop it running my battery flat. Assuming this kicking interference isnt going to affect sound quality or level when the subs in play, because it only kicks when the head unit is off

Thanks

Thats alot i know :)

  • 5 weeks later...

123456,

I know this thread is kinda old... but anyway :)

With a dual-coil Sub, as I understand it, you have a coil on the actual cone, and a coil on the chassis. If you were to bridge + to + and - to -, you would actually be restricting the power of the sub because the two coils would be cancelling each other out. try running it like this:

Connect the + of one coil to the - of the other coil. now connect the amp to the two unused terminals. (- from the first coil and + of the second one).

Cheers,

Sam.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
  • Create New...