Jump to content
SAU Community

Heelllpppp!

stunnd

By stunnd,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

stunnd Collaborator

stunnd

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

sorry to keep askin sooo many questions but my cars always havin probs......

well i recently got my car back an ive finally run my car in, but wen i go to floor it my car chugs an loses power above 5000rpm!

i took it back out to my mechanic 2day, an he checked the coils, afm's, the cam/crank angle sensor (cant remember if he said cam or crank) an im pretty sure he checked the ignitor as well, its none of the above......so he thought it mite be my fuel system, he put it on the dyno an he said the car is runnin rich so its not the fuel pump, im pretty sure he also said that he swapped my computer over with another one an the prob was still there! i mentioned the fuel filter an he said he'l swap it over with a new one but doesnt think that'l make much difference.....

does anyone no WTF is wrong??? any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advanced!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/
Share on other sites
leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

I dont know if the 200sx's are like the skylines but if you have a few bolton mods and up the boost they go run really rich and yea when giving it a boot it feels like crap.

Rich and retard is the only thing i got ??? what are your ait/fuel ratios like

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2571578
Share on other sites
Cristian Collaborator

Cristian

Posted
Posted

It can be a number of things, and like mentioned above timing can cause this.

Has it got an aftermarket ECU?

What is the fuel pressure?

What is the fuel flow volume?

Is the air cleaner restricted in anyway?

Do you have a blocked exhaust?

Is there a vacum leak?

How rich was it actually running,? If to rich it might be flooding and thus causing it to miss.

Some of these things that are easy to check yourself.

Tell us how you go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2572232
Share on other sites
Stevie Proficient

Stevie

Posted
Posted

Without more info, my guess is:

boost cut (yes this doesnt exist but its easy to explain it this way)

lower the boost a touch and try again, continue to lower until the problem is fixed. once you have done that, go and buy a SAFC at the very least so you can do some light tuning and return the boost to a higher setting.

I had the same drama in the skidline some time back as it was doing the same thing when under load.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2572782
Share on other sites
stunnd Collaborator

stunnd

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its running stock boost at the moment, its got a 3 1/2in kakimoto cat back exhaust, x-force dumps, garrett gt2860r turbos, apexi pods an rebuilt bottom end....

jus spoke to my mechanic, he said he's stuck on another pair of afm's, new pair of coils, another ecu, checked the ignitor, when he had it on the dyno he said it was runnin fine up until 5000rpm then it would run real rich.....

keep the suggestions comin fellas....still not fixed :)

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2573097
Share on other sites
Cristian Collaborator

Cristian

Posted
Posted
when he had it on the dyno he said it was runnin fine up until 5000rpm then it would run real rich.....

So from what i can gather its running to rich and this could be causing the problem.

It has been mentioned before but i didnt see an answer, sorry if i missed it.

But has the o2 sensor been changed or checked?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2573163
Share on other sites
StinkyPoo Mentor

StinkyPoo

Posted
Posted

Yeh, MORE INFO!

Check the Crank Angle Sensor.

Connections and wiring(look for cracks, exposed wires, etc)

Could be your engine is just shit! What engine have you got(s14 sr20 i assume)? You sure it's running rich and not leaning out? I don't see injectors or pump or regulator on that mod list.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2573734
Share on other sites
Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted
Could be your engine is just shit! What engine have you got(s14 sr20 i assume)? You sure it's running rich and not leaning out? I don't see injectors or pump or regulator on that mod list.

He's got a basically stock RB26 in an R32 GT-R that's just been rebuilt, he had the S14 before the R32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2573932
Share on other sites
stunnd Collaborator

stunnd

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh i asked him bout my 02 sensors an he said they should b alrite, not sure if he checked them tho...

yeh pretty sure he checked the crank angle sensor.....

nah no more s14 sr20....now an r32 rb26... i hope its not a shit engine, i jus spent bout $12,000 rebuildin it!!!

yeh its runnin rich kos he had it on the dyno yesterday arvo, still got stock injectors an supposedly ive got a bosch fuel pump (but cant garauntee that, jus what the previos owner told me)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2573936
Share on other sites
stunnd Collaborator

stunnd

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my mechanic said he's checked everythin an now wants to get an auto electrician in to check all the wiring kos he thinks the voltage is droppin somewhere, but im thinkin that i should take JaiJai opinion and get a second opinion.

does anyone think theres a chance that it could be boost creep??? was thinkin bout gettin a fuel cut defender.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2576182
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted (edited)

Why a fuel cut defender? If it was cutting fuel then it would be a aggresive misfire not just a loss of power. Come to think of it, I dont even think the GTR's have any form of fuel cut for "overboosting" anyway... certainly not at the boost levels you are talking about anyway.

You have said loses power, not ignition cut/misfire so its not an ignition problem.

The o2 sensor is only used on light throttle cruising, at WOT it isnt being used.

My money is on the fact you have upgraded to turbos that can flow a substantial more amount of air than the factory ones, and the ECU isnt liking it one bit.

You really should be running an aftermarket ECU for the modifications you have if you want it to last (or at least find someone that can remap the standard one) or else you will end up with a shit engine.

Edited by Amaru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2576224
Share on other sites
stunnd Collaborator

stunnd

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh ok, i also forgot to mention before that when i picked up my car yesterday my mechanic said the air fuel ratios were fine until it hit 5000rpm then it would run rich....

plus he told me that i have a "trial" ecu fitted....if thats any help to anyone...

he also said, if there is a voltage problem theres chance it could be my alarm.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138115-heelllpppp/#findComment-2576412
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...