Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

235/45/17 has a massive range of tyres, and they are quite well priced due to the massive popularity.

They are also the size of a control tyre for one of the motorsport events, so its relatively easy to find new and second hand Comp-Rs in that size.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd have to agree with that

Semi's are probably fine for the street 98% of the time, but the other 2% (Or maybe 1% at the moment with this drought) when you have some serious rain they would be downright dangerous.

Best to go for something that's a bit more of an all rounder.

any idea what semis in that size go for?

I bought second hand Advan A032Rs in 235/45 R17 for under $100 a pop. Mind you, they were very second hand. Track days only, and only if you're not doing competitive motorsport. On the plus side they never overheat and even after a couple of track days / supersprints they don't look any more worn than when I got them.

If you buy brand new RE55S, A032Rs, R888s, etc you're looking at $450 a corner.

Being a street car, i wouldn't want to run semi's on it.

I wouldn't recommend it, either. I've driven on Comp-R semis as daily driven tyres, and since it was winter it was one of the scarier times of my life. In the wet I may as well have been on ice....and what do you know it was always raining.....

I would suggest keeping your OEM rims. Find good tyres that are as wide as possible that will fit your rims while retaining the OEM rolling diameter.

Check the tyre thread for feedback, and then see what falls into your budget.

Well I wouldn't put 225/50 on a 6.5" wheel... but Yokohama thinks it is ok (6.0-8.0)

Mind you my car has 215/45R17 on 9J (7.0-8.5 recommended)

http://www.yokohamatire.com/utrimwidth.asp

Choosing a wheel near the middle of the range will give a balance between ride quality and handling. A wider wheel will improve handling at the expense of ride quality, while a narrower wheel will improve ride quality at the expense of handling. Consider these compromises when selecting wheels.

So the answer is YES, or NO... depending on what you mean by better or worse :)

Edited by Laurence

tyreflex

less tyre flex makes it more uncomfortable but makes the car a lot more predicatble.

but once you start stretching tyres enough, you are sacrificing the amount of tyre you are gettin onto the road for small difference in tyreflex.

most people do it for the look

Edited by salad

Just to add my experiences:

1. 265 wide FALKEN 326(SHIT TYRES) on 18 x 9inch rims like NEW! 95%+ thread <265/35/r18>

2. 205 wide Dunlop Sp2050(OEM Accord Euro Tyres) 30-40% thread just above wear indicators on Stock 16 x 6.5inch rims.(r33gtst) <205/55/r16>

Car with 200rwkw. R33 gtst.

1. Around Wakefield i managed the same time around the track both 1:18 BACK then (1:16's now).

2. Traction wise, i was surprised some quality dunlop tyres with only 30-40% thread GRIPPED better then my near new 265 falken tyres. 95%+

3. Compared to my 225/50r16 falken 326(compliance tyres that came with car). the 205/55/r16 dunlops is 100 TIMES BETTER.

So for me, QUALITY tyres OVER WIDER tyres.

<btw my mate just picked up some Toyo T1R's a few months ago in 205/55/r16 for $170-180/tyre> for the 225/50/r16 is was like $210 or there abouts.

thats just my 2cents.

salad... could you explain the theory on less contact on the road.

Does the tread go concave or something along those lines?

when you're stretching a tyre on a rim, you are using a skinny tyre that is too skinny for the rim. ie, not very wide. so you could get a much wider tyre on such a rim.

just a commonly used example, a lot of people stretch 215/45R17 on 17x9, ive done this too. now, with a 9" rim you can fit 255/40R17 on there no worries. now going by the rule of thumb that the width is in mm, you now have ~19% more rubber on the ground. thats a fair bit!

given you will have a bit more flex as the sidewall is slightly taller (5mm) and you arent stretching it, but i would rather go for the more grip personally. even for drift, means you have more grip and can go a lot faster, and hold bigger entries.

on standard rims i've run 225/50 and 205/55, and i liked the 205/55s much better. given it probly wasnt a fair test because i ran good yokohamas in the 205/55 and run of the mill 225/50s, but the 225/50 just felt a lot sloppier

Edited by salad

the contact patch thing is a myth. force is pressure times area, and the pressure a tyre can exert on the road is equal to its internal air pressure. therefore no matter what shape of tyre (wide or skinny) you will have the SAME area on the road.

However, a wider tyre will have a wider patch and a skinny tyre will have a longer patch. wider patch is better for cornering grip, skinnier patch is better for driving in the wet as there is less water to push out of the way.

the contact patch thing is a myth. force is pressure times area, and the pressure a tyre can exert on the road is equal to its internal air pressure. therefore no matter what shape of tyre (wide or skinny) you will have the SAME area on the road.

However, a wider tyre will have a wider patch and a skinny tyre will have a longer patch. wider patch is better for cornering grip, skinnier patch is better for driving in the wet as there is less water to push out of the way.

Yep got that idea now. because the tyres still have the same amount of weight pushing down on them. A skinny tyre will have a more square shape contact patch, whereas a wider tyre would have a rectangle one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...