Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so it would be a very nice car, but would it tick the pimp category. lol.

**goes back to corner to sit and think** oh yeah im still laughing at your "on her back" comment

Haha yeah that was a gem...

Mate it would definitely not tick the pimp category. More "boy racer" lol... That said, if i bought a GTR itd be a 32, and that one looks to be a very decent example. You may have to take a moment to be alone with your thoughts... and add up pros and cons. How much of the time would you be wanting to cruise around in a nice big comfy but sporty(ish) stagea, and how often will you want to be racing? You can get stageas going pretty quick.

  • Replies 196
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haha yeah that was a gem...

Mate it would definitely not tick the pimp category. More "boy racer" lol... That said, if i bought a GTR itd be a 32, and that one looks to be a very decent example. You may have to take a moment to be alone with your thoughts... and add up pros and cons. How much of the time would you be wanting to cruise around in a nice big comfy but sporty(ish) stagea, and how often will you want to be racing? You can get stageas going pretty quick.

i need to find someone with a modded stagea so i can have a ride in it. see what i could be working towards. any offers???

but yeah, the 32GTR doesnt have the sleeper looks, thats why i've loved driving my mini around. when you can take on a commodore and scare him lol.

Edited by SLO-N-STEDY
There are HEAPS of perth stageas now, surely someone over there must have had some work done to theirs...

The stagea (an RSFOUR) im about to buy has 260kW at all four... should be pretty cool.

ha ha i know, im not allowed to offer for it remember lol.

ha ha i know, im not allowed to offer for it remember lol.

correct, lol. Forgot about that. Get meditating dude!

Thing with stageas is that you can go so many ways... You can throw some cash under the bonnet and get em quick, or just put a kit on it and get it looking racey, or you can go VIP style, or throw a massive stereo in them. You can turn it into anything you want, theres no limit except you mind and budget. I was just going to throw the kit on mine and leave it at that, with ta set of wheels. Then i had a nismo stripes for a while, now im going for performance, and i will probably go for a VIP style look to it in the end, i dunno.

i am definately leaning towards the Stagea. so many options with them its stupid lol. that was the benefit of that black one, rims and kit were already done. i was gunna head down the VIP style. lower it, and stereo. I need to cut back on fast car, till i get some points back ha ha. and stagea is already fast enough to get me in and outta trouble. lol.

i think i just sold a stagea to myself. lol. ok this next week im going stagea hunting. autowholesale have a red one. thats where ill start. well, next few weeks people, expect another stagea to be added to the perth clan.

My baby is modded slightly.. you can take her for a drive if you like...

I would import your own.. alot cheaper and room for mods..

you pay for something stock in perth @ 18k or import your own for 13/14k and that gives you $$$ for mods :(

ok this next week im going stagea hunting. autowholesale have a red one. thats where ill start. well, next few weeks people, expect another stagea to be added to the perth clan.

Do you mind keeping us (me :-) ) up to date ?? Coz I am going to start my hunting soon and it'll be really useful to know what is available now, etc.

Please :(

Wildcat says BUY THE SILVER ONE....ITS SEXY....ITS HOT...ITS PIMP and I LOVE IT :(

Good luck Heath...seriously though the silver one with autech kit is sexy as..i would buy it if 1) it wasnt for sale at autowholesale and 2) if i didnt already have my baby!!

Go get yourself a STAG..and keep us up to date champ :O

well F@#$ me. i leave my thread all nice on friday arvo and by sunday its turned to shit lol.

well thats gunna make thing a bit different. hmmm, do i head for the 32GTR or stick with trying to find another stagea???? any suggestions. that yellow one is nice, but the silver series 1 has sun roofs and leather interior. leather doesnt stain,,,(should have thought of that nympho) lol. oh yeah, the black ones suspension is stocko.

apparently they have a red one for sale, all kitted up with rims also. also has sun roofs i think. so maybe.

otherwise i might get them to slap on some rims and lower the series 1 silver one, and ill take that.

decision decisions.

I had the same question when I was deciding what car to buy - 32GT-R, 32 sedan or 34 sedan.

My decision ended up being influenced by the fact that:

* I wanna be able to leave my car ANYWHERE when I go out and not have to worry about it too much;

* I want minimal hassles from other road users, who can tend to be aggressive when they see a Skyline; and

* I want minimal hassles from the cops...

Buying a GT-R pretty much rules out parking on the street when you go out, and buying a Skyline can sometimes make you a target for the dickhead factor, or cops on an ego trip...

I like the fact that my car is pretty sleeper-ish, and the only things I'll do to it visually are wheels and lowering, and maybe a rear spoiler for somewhere to mount a camera. I'm pretty sure the loudness of the exhaust is borderline, but cops barely give me a second glance!

Do you mind keeping us (me :-) ) up to date ?? Coz I am going to start my hunting soon and it'll be really useful to know what is available now, etc.

Please :)

no worries mate. ill be posting up heaps on here as soon as I get it, no doubt about that.

oh yeah wildcat, i like that silver one, part from the wing hanging off the back, little to ricey for my liking. although wouldn't be to hard to change.

Goldzilla, you pretty much hit the nail on the head, with the reason why I'm gunna get a Stagea. lol.

I want this to be a driving car not one that I have to put in a lockable enclosure when I go out cause people will damage it for fun. My old mans a cop so I hear lots about people calling him to complain that their headlights have been smashed in, or they've been keyed. He reckons probly 60% of the calls are from owner of Jap Imports. Most popular 180 and 200sx, second skyline. The Stag doesnt even crack a mention.

^^^heheheh if you buy the silver one...ill buy the wing off you--am absolutely in love with the wing :)

ha ha. i was wondering if you were gunna ask that lol. hmmm what type of spoiler do you have. maybe they can be swapped.....

ha ha. i was wondering if you were gunna ask that lol. hmmm what type of spoiler do you have. maybe they can be swapped.....

LOL i only just thought of it hey hahaha...i have a dayz edition spoiler in silver :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...