Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think so tim, the 4wd system used on the stagea is the same as 33/34 gtrs, meaning there is no "safe" quick switch from 4wd to 2wd, as the clutch packs still have hydraulic pressure in them and you run the risk of burning them out if you do not bleed the pressure out.

Please somebody correct me if I am wrong.............?

There is a "s" button, to the left of the steering column, it locks the power 50/50 front/back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2588841
Share on other sites

Unsync'd. Most definately. Unless you are somehow managing to break traction with your launches. Ive used 50/50 for driving in snow and on dirt, but for launching, set all the power to the back, cos your car will rock back on its haunches anyway. Plus, if it needs to, itll feed more power to the front anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2590273
Share on other sites

i got wheelspin from the front wheels in the wet with a hard launch.

I think i really got stagea launches down to an art, but yeh its simple once you get it.

I personally found no difference between S/No-S and 1/2/D or snow/power

Just No-S, D and normal got the best launches for me.

cant wait to drive my best mates RS4S and launch the f**k out of that and see how it spins.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2590482
Share on other sites

You'll find that if you have it set to normal, and put your foot flat to the floor, the power button will light up anyway. It just drops back gears more readily than normal, for if you are chuggin up hills or towing a trailer. Saves the engine labouring.

I think snow does exactly the opposite, stops it from dropping back gears, so the car is more controllable, and less prone to slippage. Foesnt change anything enginewise, i dont think. Just transmission settings.

I think. Thats just from me driving it around and checkin it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2590991
Share on other sites

You'll find that if you have it set to normal, and put your foot flat to the floor, the power button will light up anyway. It just drops back gears more readily than normal, for if you are chuggin up hills or towing a trailer. Saves the engine labouring.

I think snow does exactly the opposite, stops it from dropping back gears, so the car is more controllable, and less prone to slippage. Foesnt change anything enginewise, i dont think. Just transmission settings.

I think. Thats just from me driving it around and checkin it out.

Incidentally, the s2 stagea has no power button. I believe it does still have 'power mode' but just no button to activate it. It seems to automatically engage power mode depending on your driving style or if you put your foot to the floor.

In my last car (turbo silvia, auto) I used to leave power mode on all the time as I found it was more responsive with gearchanges and generally felt more lively. At first I thought it was a disadvantage for the stagea not to have a power button, but with the MV automatics shift kit (valve body upgrade) installed it does such a great job with the gears I really cant find any fault with it. Its a fantastic gearbox. :w00t:

I've heard snow mode just stops it going into first gear - so you just start off in 2nd?? Not sure if this is true.

And for the record, the 50-50 torque-split button (with the 'S') will hold 50-50 torque front and rear but only up to around 2500rpm or something and after that it will still allow more torque to the rear where necessary. :w00t:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2591137
Share on other sites

i thought with tiptronics pushing the shifter across to pseudo manual mode activates power mode if you dont shift manually

i only this as thats how the tiptronic in my territory works to activate power mode you push the shifter to manual mode but still let the car shift automatically

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2591268
Share on other sites

It doesnt matter if I use the S button or not, high rpm launches just spin right through first, so I have found that anything close to about 5k rpm is the limit, anything over 5k rpm just spins all 4 through first, which is bad because all that happens is that the car lurches which ever way the road is angled, and because most roads are agnled towards the gutter.............

I find it spins easier with the S button on actually, definatly easier to do 4wd doughnuts, all done at a proper motorsport facility of course.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139016-2wd4wd-button/#findComment-2592399
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...