Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey.

just had an RBT done and the copper said if he wasnt doing the RBT he'd book me for my tint. i argued with him that it passed compliance etc because the tint is actually in the glass.

anyone (wa preferred) had any issues with this before or do the pit guys just let it ride as it's in the glass?

the back windows are very dark but the front has minor tinting in the glass, same with the rear window. i assume this is standard on stagea's or an option. i have a 96 S1 fully optioned model.

thanks

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139133-stagea-tinted-glass/
Share on other sites

Yes, you can get dicked for it, but you can then just get it passed at a tint place, get them to write them a letter and bill the copper for you time.

I dont think people understand coppers can defect you for ANYTHING they THINK is illegal, regardless if it is or not.

If i got asked about the tint, id tell em to get f**ked and say that the fronts arnt done anyway, so its fine the way it is. Its like a van, which doesnt even have rear windows BUT can have suitable rear seats installed.

afaik in WA the only laws with regards to tint are to do with the front windows and the rears are not required to comply. if i am wrong please feel free to correct me can only comment from my own experiences

when we moved over from the ACT my dad had to take his car over the pits and it was tinted too dark, so the guy at the pits told him to peel off the front windows tint and the rears are no problems.

copper was probably just being looking for a reason to pick on you if it really had been defectable i am sure he would have had no problems with pulling you to the side then and there and slapping a yellow on your car

Yeah same in QLD, because it is not "direct viewable" then it doesnt matter how dark it is. but I had a copper ask me to put up the front two windows to check that they were not "tinted" the same and to his surprise, they werent....... but was told that as long as the front, rear and front side windows were at the legal level for tint darkness then I would be fine.

:wave:

Yeah same in QLD, because it is not "direct viewable" then it doesnt matter how dark it is. but I had a copper ask me to put up the front two windows to check that they were not "tinted" the same and to his surprise, they werent....... but was told that as long as the front, rear and front side windows were at the legal level for tint darkness then I would be fine.

So is your back window see thru??? Mine's black like the side ones.

my hatch door is black also

My hatch is dark also, I can see the tint edge around the wiper motor but looks totally factory standard, possibly applied before the window was installed? (looks that good) Has anyone obtained the documentation that states the windows are "factory" coloured? Might be handy to have it as a download for anyone that needs it... and save some time/pain.

Cheers

Luke

mines black all round... front sides and tailgate matched to the rear sides. have to wind down windows at night sometimes.

Havent been picked up for it yet, i generally have all the windows down while driving anyway. Bit of fresh air, plus the rear windows get a pretty cool angle going on, im sure youre all well aware, and have been asked many times if they are broken.

You can tell it is an aftermarket tint because the front glass is green, but you can only see it in bright daylight. Very cool at night, or when its parked with windows up. Not legal, though, no.

post-24895-1161146605.jpg

My rear window (boot) is black like the side rear ones. Only my windscreen and front driver and passenger window are not dark. I have no problems seeing out at night or anything though.

I've yet to be questioned about the "tint"....touch wood. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...