Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

More questions. I started collecting the required parts but need to clarify a couple more things from anyone who's done this:

1. Can I reuse my original auto gearbox mount and cross member with the manual box? Both are R34.

2. Can I reuse my original auto shifter trim and just add a leather gaiter for the manual shifter? The cutout in the manual trim seems a bit bigger (see photos below), I'm just wanting to make sure that there's enough space for the shifter to move.

3. There's a fair bit of tar and grime inside the bellhousing of the manual gearbox that's going in and it's sitting pretty tight, what's the best way to clean that up?

Thanks guys!

13164627415_c6d7986e64_z.jpg

Edited by V28VX37

To answer your questions after doing the conversion myself to my R34:

1) The Auto cross member and mount can be re-used

2) Yes, you can use your auto shifter trim. the shifter should not foul against it. I re-used mine. I bought a new leather gear boot and stapled velcro to the edges. Then I stuck 3m adhesive velcro to the underside of the shifter trim so the shifter boot stuck onto the trim.

3) Yes, you should clean the inside of the bellhousing, as you don't want that stuff in between your clutch. I used a wire brush, water, plenty of degreaser. Alternatively, oven cleaner or JIF could help

To answer your questions after doing the conversion myself to my R34:

1) The Auto cross member and mount can be re-used

2) Yes, you can use your auto shifter trim. the shifter should not foul against it. I re-used mine. I bought a new leather gear boot and stapled velcro to the edges. Then I stuck 3m adhesive velcro to the underside of the shifter trim so the shifter boot stuck onto the trim.

3) Yes, you should clean the inside of the bellhousing, as you don't want that stuff in between your clutch. I used a wire brush, water, plenty of degreaser. Alternatively, oven cleaner or JIF could help

Fantastic, thanks mate, that's brilliant info!!

Ok more questions... I've ordered a new inner rubber boot for the gear lever as it's torn. How do I remove the wider top part of the lever to get it on there? It seems like it's glued on or something.

Also, am I meant to have a white nylon bush on the bottom knob of the lever? Where can I get one of those in Melb?

13287266113_0b835ce471_z.jpg

Edited by V28VX37

that top bit unsrews, i got my.nylon bush from nissan, make sure u get a r34 one as r33 ones are bigger and very similar part number. i'll see if i can find the part number.

Thanks. I'm not being very successful in unscrewing the top part, it seems like there's some rubber mounting between it and the bottom part?

Just Jap lists the Nylon bush as 32861-H7301, can anyone confirm if that is correct for the R34?

Thanks. I'm not being very successful in unscrewing the top part, it seems like there's some rubber mounting between it and the bottom part?

Just Jap lists the Nylon bush as 32861-H7301, can anyone confirm if that is correct for the R34?

Had the same issue 3 months ago, the top part WON'T come off, so stop trying!

The boot is installed from the top (where the shift knob screws on). This description is going to sound a little weird, so bear with me :-o Lubricate the small hole & the shaft With a lubricant (oil or water based, as long as its slippery). Guide the shaft into the small hole, OK, enough, the small hole of the boot WILL stretch over the widest part of the shaft without tearing. I had my doubt's, but it does go over easily with a good amount of lube.

Yes you need a bush on the bottom of the shifter. You could enquire with gktech.com if they have a solid brass bush for the R34's. Some people like the improved shift feel they provide, but I'd stay with the factory nylon.

  • Like 2

Ok that worked a treat, the new dust boot is now in place. For future reference the Nissan part number is 32862 (BOOT RUBBER C/L). About $10 + postage off eBay.

I also got the nylon bush from a local Nissan dealership, the part number is 32861-H7301 (BUSH CONTROL LE) - this is for R34, R33 is different. Just Jap also sell these: http://justjap.com/index.php/genuine-nissan-gear-shifter-lower-bush-nissan-s13-silvia-a31-cefiro-r31-r32-gts-and-gts-t-r33-gts-and-r34-gt-t-and-gt-r.html

One more question: How do you install the circlip that holds the upper plastic ring (and the gear lever) in place? Mine seems pretty loose but there's probably a trick to make it work.

One more question: How do you install the circlip that holds the upper plastic ring (and the gear lever) in place? Mine seems pretty loose but there's probably a trick to make it work.

So this part:

13496932943_ffc116ce39_z.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like I'm missing another circlip/lock ring, see below, any idea where to get one in Melb/Aus?

These too are available from your local Nissan dealership, part number is 32204-V5004 (RING-SNAP).

  • 2 weeks later...

That second ring looks like it could be a back up ring that would sit underneath the circlip, cant be too sure, as I didn't pay too much attention when I did mine. :unsure:

You need a pair of INSIDE circlip pliers, like these:

circleclip-pliers-i-L.jpg

Straight will probably be the go. Just pop the shifter in, put it in third, squeeze the circlip & snap it into the groove. Where the gap sits doesn't matter too much, just make sure you put it in an easy spot to get access to it if you need to!

Mine was alittle loose in the groove, so don't stress. Maybe mine was missing the back up ring!!!

  • Like 1

Thanks 533 RYC!

The conversion is partially done but they've hit a snag with the hydraulics ... Does anyone know if R33 and R34 clutch master cylinders are interchangeable?

If not, is there an easy way to tell which one I've got (based on a photo)?

Cheers

What dramas are you having?

So you've got an R34 GTT gearbox?

Did you use all R34 hydraulic parts?

What are the sizes are the Master cylinder & slave cylinder?

I'm not sure if R33 & R34 parts are interchangeable, as R33 is push type & R34 is pull type.

Seeings as the R34 GTT is a pull type, when refitting the gearbox, it is VERY critical that the input shaft is not bashed around going through the pressure plate. Engagement of the release bearing to the pressure plate is also critical. If it didn't engage properly, this could give you dramas.

Check out this thread if you haven't already found it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/

Pictures would be great!

What dramas are you having?

So you've got an R34 GTT gearbox?

Did you use all R34 hydraulic parts?

What are the sizes are the Master cylinder & slave cylinder?

I'm not sure if R33 & R34 parts are interchangeable, as R33 is push type & R34 is pull type.

Seeings as the R34 GTT is a pull type, when refitting the gearbox, it is VERY critical that the input shaft is not bashed around going through the pressure plate. Engagement of the release bearing to the pressure plate is also critical. If it didn't engage properly, this could give you dramas.

Check out this thread if you haven't already found it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/

Pictures would be great!

Thanks mate, pics below!

Not sure about master and slave sizes but they're both OEM, just wanting to confirm that they're R34 GTT and not R33 GTS-T.

The workshop has installed and wired everything up but they're having trouble engaging the clutch and asked me whether the master cylinder is an R34 item.

We are using an R34 gearbox and all R34 parts except for an R33 tailshaft front half. Brand new pull type NPC clutch.

13949995770_c8c3a0675a.jpg

13949950337_b9f65c13c6.jpg

14133692712_af5c04e829.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...