Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Year : 1997 (series 3, Xenon Headlights etc.)

Colour: Sonic Silver

Condtion Very Good

My car has to go, situations have changed again this time it must go.

Was imported in June this year under sevs since getting it here it has been serviced twice using Motul Oils and the timing belt was replaced at the dirst service with a HKS belt even though it appeared to have new on just recently put on. Car is 100% mechanically stock non V-spec. Car currently has 18" Black Nismo LM GT4 II wheels.

Other non standard features;

Thatchem approved Alarm (not disclosing brand on internet) see - http://www.thatcham.org/

Alpine MP3 head unit

HKS Type 1 turbo timer - only few weeks old.

Genine Nissan GTR Floor Mats

Nismo But plug black gear knob

I'm after $34,000 with standard wheels or $38,000 with the nismo wheels.

Very regretful sale. Number Plates not included.

wheels4.jpg

I will get interior and engine bay photos up as soon as i can.

Edited by ookami
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139961-fs-series-3-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Selling due to a possible change in financial position and the fact my child will be born in the next coming days. I am semi neg on the prices, you can always try worst i can do is tell you go eat a fat one :P

Selling due to a possible change in financial position and the fact my child will be born in the next coming days. I am semi neg on the prices, you can always try worst i can do is tell you go eat a fat one :D

semi - meaning not much on the price? :mad:

Thats good to know, meaning I don't need to place an offer because there is no Budging.

well I'll be in Brissie in 2 weeks, I'll see how your tread goes... ;)

well, if you all think that this car is worth what its priced for then why hasnt it been sold yet?

There are many people who are looking for GTRs on the market but are not willing to pay that much

Cheers

They are the same people who will buy a cheap 15,000 R32 GTR, blow the engine the first week then can't afford the rebuild. You get what you pay for.

well, if you all think that this car is worth what its priced for then why hasnt it been sold yet?

There are many people who are looking for GTRs on the market but are not willing to pay that much

Cheers

Because 90% of people looking for a GTR dont have a clue what a good one is worth, and can only afford the cheapest, most run down example that they can find.

That is why.

Just because a car is a good price, that doesnt mean its going to sell in 5 mins.

They are the same people who will buy a cheap 15,000 R32 GTR, blow the engine the first week then can't afford the rebuild. You get what you pay for.

I've owned many skyline's. Pervious one, Yes an R32 GTR, pirce I payed and sold it for I can't say.

it was a mint cheap one, and it lasted the trashing I gave it and still sold it as an excellent condition car.

Like I sayed before Im not criticizing on what they are worth and not looking for a cheap crapping one!

I have seen these cars go for 45k and 14 months down the track sell for 29k (the same car!)

There people who have an idea what to look for, and what to pay for a GTR.

furthmore - these are just the many reason why they havn't sold!

I hope he sell it for the price he wants. :P

I am not the person who just emails a ridicules price. I wait and see :D

For all the tight asses out there, the car insured at market value which is more than i am asking for it. Also forgot to add it has a thachem approved security system, all black wiring, 3 point imboliser, interior movement sensors blah blah blah to comply with full insurance standards.

Beautiful car, and god damn it I want those rims.

Redbook on these for interest's sake:

http://www.redbookasiapacific.com/au/vehic...hp?key=NISS98CW

So yes, it certainly is under market value and looks to be an awesome example.

I want those rims (I know I have said it twice :rolleyes: ).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...