Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

anyone out there running a EBC have problems with power fluctuations on their dyno graph?

This is sorta a continuation from a post i did a few weeks back. Long story short, a no. of ppl mentioned that my power graph(attached) is all over the shop, timing n fuel maps could be out. Ive since spoken to my tuner n he seems to think its becoz im running a EBC. Reason for the unstable power graph is becoz the EBC pulsates alot. To solve it, take it out. Im not too convinced of the explaination given and i dont really want to remove a $460 EBC anyway.

Bass Junky, u posted ur graph the last time, i can see that its way smoother than mine is, wot sorta boost ctrl were u running at the time?

My mods - Power FC with boost ctrl kit, turbobak with split dump, FMIC, pod, BOV.

Cheers.

R34_dyno_Power___AFR.pdf

Edited by G_Force
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140118-power-fluctuations-with-ebc/
Share on other sites

I have the same prob in my rb25.

It has a HKS EBC on 12.5psi it spiked to 14psi on a warm day on the dyno. T

This effected how much power I mad; as it spiked to 14 it made 211.2rwkw and then drops back to 12.5 to make aroung 205rwkw. However, other than that I had a healthy fuel and power curve.

It will spike more when the air temp is cold as colder air is more dense that hot air; thus give your engine some extra power and a little more stock boost.

Doesn't really seam to be the cause of your problems though. It most likely comes down to tunning errors.

check for exhaust restrictions, once the gate opens it should be stable

so its probably not the controllers fault, the tuner could do some testing to test and prove that theory, other than "its the controllers fault".

try a run with the exhaust dropped off so its just dump then to atmo

see if spikes then, it may reveal a different story as there is no backpressure restriction

Nabil, my tune was done on a warm day.

Paul, im pretty sure there are no restrictions on the exhaust, whole system is practically new, catback i have is a Blitz NUR Spec, one of the highest flowing catbacks on the market, when u look down the pipes, u can see straight thru to the other end. Cat is a Catco large body from BATMBL, split dump also from BATMBL.

I'll be seeing my tuner next week but i just wanted a 2nd opinion on the problem.

Cheers.

When people say spiking, they mean that it ramps up to say 14psi and then backs off to 12.

Your tuner seems to be implying that the boost is Fluctuating.

Different things....

My mistake... i exagerated it by saying spiking, fluctuations would be the more precise term. Either case, i havent heard of anyone else having this problem caused by an EBC. One would think that incorrect timing n fuel maps would be the more likely caus of it. Anyone else agree?

Ask your tuner for a graph of Power Vs Boost.

This will be a very good indication of how the boost is performing.

Thanks for the pm's Bass. Somehow i still didnt receive the timing maps u were trying to send me, maybe there was a problem with the upload?? Anyway, appreciate the help. Perhaps email it to me. I'll pm u my email.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...