Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had the usual 4500rpm > misfire and it really pissed me off. i tried taping them up, it worked for a little while then after a few hours it buckled on me again. i tried araldite and i waited around 12hrs for it to dry, put them back in and after 2 weeks the problem came back.

i figured there must be a reason for why the spark wants to travel through the hairline cracks rather than through the coil..

looking at the coils, i noticed that the copper part was looking a little crappy. it looks like it had a build up of carbon (or something else) on the inside so it occured to me that the spark may have been finding another route to earth as the normal route was no longer the easiest/shortest (electricity travels the shortest path possible).

this is what a bad one looks like:

post-13452-1161733669.jpg

as you can see here, it looks like complete crap.

i didnt know that this was what it was meant to look like, i thought it was normal till i tried this fix.

this is how to REALLY fix your coil packs:

you will need:

- a dremil drill with a small sanding attachment.

- WD40, vaseline or de-oxification paste

- the usual tools to remove your coils

1. first took apart your coils (rubber boot and spring off)

post-13452-1161733992.jpg

2. get a dremil drill set out and lightly sand back a very thin layer on the inside of where the little spring sits inside the coil.

(around a teaspoon of build-up came off the inside of my coils. this was the gunk that was stopping the current getting to the spring, to transfer to the spark plug).

3. clean the coil out, preferably with a blower, but you could just tap it and it will mostly be out anyway.

4. spray some WD40 into the coil pack to stop it from coroding. i've just found out that vasoline or electrical de-oxification paste would be better for corrosion proofing as theyre conductive. WD40 isnt. i used WD40 and had no problems but if i ever take my spark plugs out again i'll be sure to give it a go.

this is what they should look like after:

post-13452-1161734160.jpg

Done.

i did this fix over a year ago and i havent gotten a single misfire since, im not using any bit of tape or araldite.

i've never tried putting splitfires in my car, but id imagine it'd feel pretty much the same. big call? try it for yourself.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well done. have to give this a try next time i'm bored enough to take my coils out.

you could also use some sand paper wrapped around a skinny screw driver then spin it between your hands as if you are trying to start a fire.

and if you don't have an air gun, a push bike pump with a ball needle, or even just blowing through a straw.

are they all made from copper?? coz im fairly (not 100%) that mine were like metal or iron (some silver metal) and not copper, i got a s1 R33 gtst

definately give that a go, they looked like crap in ur 1st pic, good work

I thought of that already but my pack swere clean as...more so than the average 15yo standard skyline coil set (perhaps mine are only a couiple of years old.)

are they all made from copper?? coz im fairly (not 100%) that mine were like metal or iron (some silver metal) and not copper, i got a s1 R33 gtst

definately give that a go, they looked like crap in ur 1st pic, good work

im not 100% sure what theyre made of mate, but mine is a s1 r33 also and they are what looks like copper.

SECUR1TY,

Have you since removed your coil pack cover, got the coils hot and watched them flash at night?

If you give it a quick rev it really lights up.

I might give this a shot. Never know, but my coils have done at least 220,000km's. :S

Good work joe, it makes perfect sense.

Why would a spark insist on jumping through a minute gap in plastic through about 1-2 inches of air, when there is a perfectly good small gapped spark plug to jump through.

Cubes, although it won't be perfect if there are still cracks in the plastic, I reckon the after cleaning all that junk off, the spark would easily prefer to jump the plug gap over the 1-2 inch gap of air going through the plastic and sparking on the cam cover.

Manwhore3,

From watching mine arc out at night it looks as if the spark is very small, it jumps to the coil holder. So in reality the gap is rather small, only a 2mm or so. You can see how small the gap is in the pics above.

In my case anyway. :(

Thinking about it though.... Run a 1.1mm gap with 11+psi of boost and most have a missfire, the combustion pressures make it damn difficult for the spark to jump so I can see why it would rather jump to the coil holder if there's a crack in the plastic some where. I swear mine don't have cracks in the plastic so I'm going to give cleaning this up a shot. Hell ya never never know, might save me $500.

Rip the plug off a VN/VP coil pack and watch how big arsed those things spark. Easily jump 3" with a big fat spark. Quite a amazing really.

dont forget that the spring or carbon (which ever you've got) is directly connected to the coil pack so thats got to tell you the bond between them isnt the best if it chooses to go to the coil pack holder instead of to the spring/carbon.

are they all made from copper?? coz im fairly (not 100%) that mine were like metal or iron (some silver metal) and not copper

just had a look at mine a while ago and it looks metal as well. unless the actual 'metal' is junk and once cleaned it comes up with the copper look.

dont forget that the spring or carbon (which ever you've got) is directly connected to the coil pack so thats got to tell you the bond between them isnt the best if it chooses to go to the coil pack holder instead of to the spring/carbon.

Joe, what cubes said is also relevant I think.

PS: don't forget, a spark won't just jump to a spring that is just hanging there. The spring needs to be grounded to something. i.e. if it is going to go to the spring, it has to go through the spark plug.

But you'rer also right too. lol. If there is bad contact between the spring and coilpack, it'll make the crack look just that bit easier.

I think in conclussion, although the cracks might still be there, making it easier for the spark to jump can't hurt. I mean, if it was mega mega hard for the spark to jump through the plug gap, it mgiht still go through the crack, e.g. if you were runnign 20psi. But I think if you are running 10ish psi, and if it was just barely arcing, this idea may very well fix it.

just had a look at mine a while ago and it looks metal as well. unless the actual 'metal' is junk and once cleaned it comes up with the copper look.

i did clean it with a dremel slightly, is ur's a s2 motor?(maybe i got a s2 motor, i duno) can any1 else answer this?

Well my car is misfiring between 5-6000, completely stock engine, i figured it may be clogged injectors (cars done 68,000) but thought it unlikely. Would this fix it do you think? It still makes consistant power through the range, and lower RPM, just in that area it misses a few times....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...