Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Revving Past 4k

Matex

By Matex,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Matex Explorer

Matex

Posted
Posted

Hey all

Had a search through other posts but couldn't find any that explained my problem.

95% of the time the car drives perfectly. This morning she wouldn't rev at all, wasn't flat footing it, just normal everyday driving style and she kept cutting out till i shifted into 3rd and than the problem went away. Happened everytime i stopped at lights ie 1st and 2nd coughing and spluttering than 3rd and above normal. Checked that the AFM is plugged in, boost guage reads 12 PSI with no boost spiking running a normal bleed valve.

When i drove home from work earlier today (sore back, don't ask) she drove like nomral. Only happened when i was almost home and gave her a bit, wouldn't rev past 4K and kept on cutting out. Looked at the boost guage and was sitting at 12 PSI.

Got a mate round to show him and car drove normally. Revved past 4K and pulled strongly through all gears.

Also it would seem that my bleed valve isn't working. I have the thing shut so that it should be at the stock boost pressure but she's still reading 12 PSI. Could that be it ???

Finally i recently installed a Hybrid bolt on intercooler kit. 600 X 300 X 76. Now my bonnet won't shut properly as we had to remove the centre bit to install the intercooler. We knocked up a peice of metal to hold the latch in place but it won't pop the hood unless someone is pulling it up and it moves up and down in the wind as i am driving

Any ideas as to these problems?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140637-not-revving-past-4k/
Share on other sites
psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I remember my 3SGTE was so shit, in stock form, it just got worse and worse, till finally, I wondered if it would even make it the short drive to the workshop where I was having an aftermarket ECU installed.

I never thought about it much again because the car was alive and double the power of ever before after the tune. I was half expecting to be told the engine was dead.

I am amazed how many people have problems related to running rich, as I did and don't just get an aftermarket ecu of some sort. SAFC if you have a low budget.

One thing leads to another when you run rich, you'll use more fuel, you'll block up your cat, etc.

Just get an safc and a tune, if not one better and get a full aftermarket ecu, make sure you have NO boost leaks. get rid of you bleed valve if you have it shut.

Matex Explorer

Matex

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Now it won't rev past 4.5 at full throttle. Starts spluttering and coughing. 3/4 and she revs to about 4700 but keeps cutting out. At half throttle however it revs out to 7 no problem. Any ideas as to what could be the problem. Installed some iridium plugs today but this problem is annoying me.

EKSMUD Proficient

EKSMUD

Posted
Posted
Now it won't rev past 4.5 at full throttle. Starts spluttering and coughing. 3/4 and she revs to about 4700 but keeps cutting out. At half throttle however it revs out to 7 no problem. Any ideas as to what could be the problem. Installed some iridium plugs today but this problem is annoying me.

check your coils...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...