Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm in the market for a second hand car and consdering a imported Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 2. It's a 1997 model and has done around 55,000ks, pure stock no after market addons.

I'm 19 years old but thankfully have a stable join in the IT industry with the one company for 2 years. I've already been granted a $15,000 loan from the bank towards the car, plus another $10,000 i have saved up. So all up I've got around $25,000 to spend, which has to include rego and a portion of the comp insurance.

The car is $20,000, and has been approved by the RAA to insure it's in good nick and road legal here in Australia.

However given this will be the first time purchasing a car, anyone care to offer feedback as to wheather this would be a good purchase. What would be the average cost to keep such a car on the road, get it serviced, anything to look out for long term?

Edited by Nods
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140796-skyline-r33-gts-t-series-2/
Share on other sites

theres not much anyone can tell you about the car your purchasing but i can tell you that r33 s2 are a very nice car to drive and keeping sevices between 3000-5000klm will ensure it lives happily with only faults you may have will be coilpacks and clutch. i would advise you to get the timing belt done on your first service and being such a prick of a job you might aswell do the water pump. enjoy :)

Edited by toffy

Hay mate i own a s2.

Prices for them have fallen a little over the year.

I beleive 20k mark for a stock one is alittle to high. Maybe around 18k if its in really good condition. Only you can judge if its in good condition since we cant inspect it, nor see any pics. But pics can hide many things..

Anyways to maintain its costing me about 100bucks for servicing every 5000kms.

But thats with really good quailty oil etc etc..

Other than that, i have had no problems with my car whatso ever.

once you start modifying it, just make you do get quailty parts.

but seriously if your car is in good condition and service it every 5000kms, you shouldnt have a problem at all.. Unless you thrash it lol..

Gdluck n maybe post up some pics.

Hope its SILVER!!! lol

yeah I'm still looking around for the ideal skyline.

The major benifit of this car is it has todate only done 30,000ks and has even been checked by the RAA for faults etc. So i was willing to pay a little more for it given its log book has a solid history of service, low ks, and no faults what so ever found by both the RAA and a mechanic friend of mine.

None the less if anyone has any suggestions on where to purchase a good skyline both private and dealer within SA feel free to send me a pm.

Thanks for the feedback.

i picked up mine for $15,500 car had 69000kms on it

mods

Suspension - Tein coilovers, tie rod ends, sway bar,

exhaust

hks pod

17inch work rims

that was back in JAN this year

if your in NSW check out www.aussiecarcompliance.com.au and give joel a call

i got my car from him, top bloke, ive had the car almost a year now and not a single thing has gone wrong

hmmm, im selling my s2 to buy a house, 16k with 3in zorst, pod , front strut brace, king superlows, $750 clutch, 85klm,pioneer cd, 4door and its immac oh and its silver :) (shameless plug lol),oh and another $1500 you can have the wheels aswell(18in, brand new), ill put a pic up soon

hmmm, im selling my s2 to buy a house, 16k with 3in zorst, pod , front strut brace, king superlows, $750 clutch, 85klm,pioneer cd, 4door and its immac oh and its silver :D (shameless plug lol),oh and another $1500 you can have the wheels aswell(18in, brand new), ill put a pic up soon

Off the topic but i thought superlows wern't made for skylines. Do you have superlows?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...