Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D

HI. ive got an R33 and for the last 8 days ive been having probs with excelleration. When i take off the car feels like it is pulling back. It is really hard to get ay boost and when i do it comes in dangerous short bursts. I thought it my be fuel tampering (scabby servos) so i let it run dry and went to anoher shell but its still happening. I'll be drving and will try and put my foot down and get no power then all of a sudden, i get, as i said, a shor power intake and it is quite dangerous cause it will happen when im right behind another vechile.

So if anyone out there has any suggestions i would more than appreciate your help as im so worried about my princess....

Thanks in advance

Gem

Edited by princess01
:sick:

HI. ive got an R33 and for the last 8 days ive been having probs with excelleration. When i take off the car feels like it is pulling back. It is really hard to get ay boost and when i do it comes in dangerous short bursts. I thought it my be fuel tampering (scabby servos) so i let it run dry and went to anoher shell but its still happening. I'll be drving and will try and put my foot down and get no power then all of a sudden, i get, as i said, a shor power intake and it is quite dangerous cause it will happen when im right behind another vechile.

So if anyone out there has any suggestions i would more than appreciate your help as im so worried about my princess....

Thanks in advance

Gem

I had similar problems with my last car (silvia turbo). Cleaning the air flow meter helped (take it out, run some metho over the element that sits in the middle of the afm (do NOT touch any wires with your fingers), let it dry fully then put it back in the car). Not sure what the problem was exactly. It seemed to do it more in hot weather or after the car had heated up a bit.

The reason cleaning my afm helped was because I was using an oiled air filter (k&n) and they tend get oil all over the element in the afm. I changed back to a dry air filter and had much better results. Cant say if the afm was the problem. I suspect the problem may have been elsewhere and just made worse by the afm reading incorrectly.

Other suggestions might be to check the fuel pump?? dunno.

Does it seem to accelerate ok up to when you'd hit boost? Does it stutter or just really bog down and you get nothing? In my case the revs would build up slowly and it would seem to pick up a little but it was terrible. And only after 15-20 minutes or so of driving. Often I could turn the car off then back on and it would be fine for a couple of minutes.

Hi, It might help if you list any mods (if any) on the car that you are ware of.

One of my mate's personally imported a series 6 RX-7 & it ran like crap because it was tuned in Japan to run on their premium fuel (108ron?). A simple re-tune on the dyno fixed it right up & it runs beautifully now.

has the car been previously owned in australia or are you the first owner?

Good luck with fixing your car & hopefully someone on here has an answer for you.

Hi, It might help if you list any mods (if any) on the car that you are ware of.

One of my mate's personally imported a series 6 RX-7 & it ran like crap because it was tuned in Japan to run on their premium fuel (108ron?). A simple re-tune on the dyno fixed it right up & it runs beautifully now.

has the car been previously owned in australia or are you the first owner?

Good luck with fixing your car & hopefully someone on here has an answer for you.

Hi,

There are no mods at alll on the car. It was owned in aus before me. Thanks for the advice. Ill give it a go

So... when you give it half throttle, it stutters? Or it drives normally but with no boost? When the boost comes on, it shouldn't launch you TOO hard on a stocker. What does the boost guage read when all this happens?

How far are you putting the boot in?

If it IS just the boost, and not a fuel or coilpack or whatever problem, then maybe you have a sticky wastegate actuator? You'd have to be gunning it and not just normal traffic driving to generate that much boost that you feel it though.

she did say it happens when shes taking off so its not the common misfiring problem.

it could be your:

CAS

AFM

spark plugs

coil packs.

do the spark plugs if you havent already. take your AFM out and spray with carby cleaner. do my coil pack fix, and try swap your CAS with someone else with an r33.

if you can get your hands on someone else's CAS, then do that first.

if you were in syd i'd be able to give you a hand.

Sounds to me like misfire

Does it happen around 4000/5000rpm onwards?

hi ta for your suggesstions. i took it apart and it is the coils. one cover is broken. YEAH!!!! not the thousands of crap that i thought it may be:)

ta gem

Check sparks, check coilpacks for hairline cracks, clean afm?

Does "sound" like the common missfire problem that nearly every line owner has.

hi ta for your suggesstions. i took it apart and it is the coils. one cover is broken. YEAH!!!! not the thousands of crap that i thought it may be:)

ta gem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...