Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

eriktufa,

The colour of leather can be changed by dying it. I looked into this cause I make up the leather gearstick and handbrake boots for the R33's. Check in the yellow pages. Apparently it works very well and is very durable cause it's dyed, not sprayed on.

Just to give you an idea on price, I got quoted $850 to do two front seats !! Not cheap, but cheaper than getting new leather put on...

About the clear front indicators. I have a pair of clear front indicators for a GTR (the ones that go in the front bar). I haven't put them in yet, and I may be willing to flog them off. Drop me a PM for your interested.

J

SHUTO-BOY, a turbo already give my mom and dad a headache if I'm speeding and an INTERCOOLER, I won't dream to get it, It's just impossible now :D, any horsepower improvement is almost impossible. I like car with a good look and interior design that's why.

man u should have bought honda then and be like them other ricers if you after just looks but if you want looks,power plus the ability to get more power, then thats the reason we all got skylines :D

sorry to whore in this thread moderators, but i don't like clowns

adrian :D

Ok guys, I don't wanna get more power that doesn't mean I don't want, but My dad won't allowed me, I want to get more power like chaning air filters , exhaust intercooler, and do some stuff, He doesn't trust me that much with turbo car that's all.

I hope you understand, I'm not a clown btw I'm a FR34K. :O

Thanx GTS VSPEC for supporting me.

Audio really cool , I want it to but I have to wait until I live alone cause I have to go shopping every week and I can't put any audio system at the back , poor me :)

erik dont worry about a turbo timer, if it aint hammered all day every day for long periods of boost at a time. then you wont need it, just drive nice. you said you aint gonna go for mad power yet anyways, you turbo is loving its oil bath as it is, temperature is all good. if you got one when you car was imported then yeah thats fine, but otherwise thats money that can be spent on a replacement K&N panel filter or some vinyl dye, Hey go to marlows and look at some of the leather dyes and vinyl dyes. I had a GSR lancer previoulsy I retrimmed in vinyl then decided to chnge the colour the dye worked perfectly, it is spray on but not like paint.

and I was only messing around with you before about beating sense into you. I couldnt care if you read it wrong man, sh-it happens Erik you need to get on the green and chill

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...