Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Never seen a workshop open after 2 or 3 pm on a saturday mate...

You will find they all follow similar hours... They not woolworths...

Might want to conduct a search for workshops and start making a few calls tho. Why do you need a workshop open late???

ya, let me clarify i ment open after 5 on weekdays and maybe open for couple hours on weekends. i work and only have time after 5 or on the weekends.

always want to fix up a FMIC,dump pipe and run on stock high boost setting......save up the cash....just dont get the time to put it.

any help people....sure someone must be open on weekends, so i can leave it with them.....in Vic lot of places are open on sat, that i know.....

ya, let me clarify i ment open after 5 on weekdays and maybe open for couple hours on weekends. i work and only have time after 5 or on the weekends.

always want to fix up a FMIC,dump pipe and run on stock high boost setting......save up the cash....just dont get the time to put it.

any help people....sure someone must be open on weekends, so i can leave it with them.....in Vic lot of places are open on sat, that i know.....

not too many places i'm aware of

you can try mercury motorsport?

Most people just take a day of leave during the week to put the car into the shop.

Try GMR at Fairfield, their details are here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130753

John opens late, usually 10-11am and is often there until 9-10pm most weeknights. He's done most of the mechanical work on my car.

The reason i asked why is why not just drop your car off in the morning and pick it up after work in the afternoon...?

Pick a shop close to your work... Simple...

ya, i think this is the logical thing to do, will give a call to mercury and G.M.R for a quote on the stuff..

thanks people....QLD move has being good so far....weather or the weather..... :( ,

So what exactly are you after?

Do you have all the piping to mount the FMIC or do you need them made up?

If made up, Mild Steel/Stainless Steel?

Is the Dump pipe a simple, unbolt the existing an fit in the new one?

Not a new Exhaust system from Turbo back?

Is it just installing a 2 stage boost controller? Hi/Low boost..

Hi Guys,

New to Brisbane, Any goood workshop that are around ?, which are open after 5 or weekends.

somebody has to be open ?

My friend runs his own workshop called Motive Performance at Coopers Plains (close to sunnybank). Monday to Saturday he is normally open well after 5pm. I get my GTR modded and service there all the time (recently he fitted a Greddy oil cooler for me). Very nice guy, and the price is very reasonable.

Call him on 3277 7279 OR 0403 598 527

Edited by Blitz_R33

If all those other suggestions fail you, Elite Racing works weekends including most Sundays.

You can contact him via this site.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showuser=10554

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben.

If all those other suggestions fail you, Elite Racing works weekends including most Sundays.

You can contact him via this site.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showuser=10554

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben.

of course...he is really good...give him a pm and see what he can do for ya

allstar? are you serious?!?! Oh god NO!!

Really...

There are quite a number of members and users that use richard and I would have to say im supprised...

I understand that all workshops have their fans and those who dont like them, but id have to say your the first i have ever known to be on that side of the fence when it comes to allstar...

PM me... Would love to know about it...

So what exactly are you after?

Do you have all the piping to mount the FMIC or do you need them made up?

If made up, Mild Steel/Stainless Steel?

Is the Dump pipe a simple, unbolt the existing an fit in the new one?

Not a new Exhaust system from Turbo back?

Is it just installing a 2 stage boost controller? Hi/Low boost..

hmmm...bugger all i want is a smooth daily driver that has bit more low down urge and flat tourqe curve.....

not after KW as such....

but can only afford FMIC , dump pipe, and apexi avc-r and dyno.....

if someone can suggest a better way to have flat tourqe curve by all means......but no money for power FC and turbo highflow range mods

car now has cat back, POD...and new clutch....has being with me for some time and well sort of got used to the power a bit...never being tuned...ECU reset only from time to time.....just for the fun of it...

Thanks for all the help though, SAU forums rocks !!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...