Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-4 Engine In To An R32 Gtr?

sidewazegtst
 Share

Recommended Posts

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
Posted

Ok ok don't kill me here and trust me when I say there's a method to my madness :D.

I just wanted to know if anyone can confirm if an RB20 GTS-4 engine will bolt to an R32 GTR tranmission and the rest of the car too? I know the GTS4 is AWD just like the GTR so I'm guessing it would but I am not 100% positive. Now I'm talking a full swap including the GTS-4 engine harness and ecu as well, basically can it be done and is a bolt in thing?

I can imagine you all would think I'm nuts but I can get a GTS-4 engine very cheap and I would be selling the RB26 to fund another RB26 idea I've thought of but it'll take some coin. So in order to still drive the GTR (as I can't really be without a car) I need to know if this idea will work. If it can't be done, as in a bolt on thing, then I will be forced to the other route which would be much longer to save up the money needed. Having a good chunk of money from selling a complete, perfectly running RB26 will go a long way to expiditing this project I have in mind.

Honestly and truly I'm not degrading the GTR here or going to leave the RB20 engine in for very long. Think of it as a short term thing for the long term ending goal.

Your help will be VERY appreciated and if this can happen with no prob's at all, I'll get in to more details on what I want to do. :(

Thanks guys and take care.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142160-r32-gts-4-engine-in-to-an-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I've put a RB25DET (Stagea) into a GTS4. A number of people have fitted RB26s into GTS4s. No reason it won't go the other way (RB20 -> GT-R).

But, realistically, for the cost involved in sourcing, purchasing and fitting all the GTS4 stuff, you could probably buy a cheap GM or Ford to keep you mobile while the GT-R is undergoing it's transformation.

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well again I can get the engine, wire harness and ecu very cheap through a buddy of mine. Would I need anything more? I was guessing (and hoping) that it would pretty much be a simple motor swap?

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Honestly, I completely understand what you guys are trying to say and truth be told, I'll be getting the motor, wire harness and ecu for only a couple hundred bucks from a buddy, I have the use of another friends shop with a hoist and all the tools to do the swap thatI don't have to pay to use and couple of buddies of mine want to help me just because they enjoy this kind of stuff.

So really, I just want to know if this is a simple swap, no modifications needed to make it fit to the GTR tranny or paying a lot of money in order to make it fit. Thats why I'm asking if there's anything else besides what I will have to make this work?

Edited by sidewazegtst
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The IC plumbing back to the throttle body will be a minor hindrance. Other than that, it should be a straight "rip out RB26, shove in RB20". To replace the loom, remove the LH guard (fender).

Thought - will you have clearance for the RB20 plenum adjacent to the GT-R clutch master / booster?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

So the cost of the engine, coolant, oils etc cooler pipings arent going to blow the cost through the roof. Then when its time to rip it out you will be stuck with an RB20 that noone will want to buy.

Whereas if you buy a smart clapper, then at least when the GTR is back on the road you will be able to sell the clapper for no real loss. Your time is better spent working the extra hours or a second job to get the money together then it is ripping your GTR apart and throwing an RB20 in it.

Hell, depending on where you work, borrow a family members push bike and ride/public transport.

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^^^

Well I'm 30 so insurance isn't all that much for me. ;)

Roy - Well I do have use of another vehicle however it's the wife's and she needs it for her errands or taking the kids out, so I can't keep driving it. I live about an hour ish or so (driving) from work and I swore of public transportation a long time ago. :(

It's gona take a whole season to save up the remaining money needed for this project so I still want to drive my car. I know this all seems unusual and sure the idea of just buying a beater to drive is good, it's just not the way I want to go thats all. Plus it's fun swapping an engine, at least my buddies and I enjoy doing it, having a shop to use whenever for free helps out for sure and after I'm done with the GTS-4 motor, I'll sell it. There is actually a market for the RB20 motor's here in Canada and sure I won't get a lot but I'm getting it cheap to begin with so even if I make enough to cover the fluids, I still came out ahead. I got a season of driving out of it and covered my expense for the fluids, can't go wrong there.

blind_elk - You don't think there should be any added parts I'll need or modifications to do? As for the ic plumbing, yeah I've factored that in already. With the clutch master and brake booster, I think the GTS and GTR have them in the same spot and since the engine bays are the exact same size, there should'nt be any clearence issues. Hell, the RB20 motor is smaller too :P

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...and after I'm done with the GTS-4 motor, I'll sell it. There is actually a market for the RB20 motor's here in Canada ...
But GTS4 engines? I'm pretty certain you can't swap GTS4 and GTSt engines over, because the sump pans are different - they aren't interchangeable.

Any additional parts - what about an exhaust?

I don't believe there is any difference in the basic physical size of the 2 engines (head and block). But the GTS4 engine uses an "up-and-over" style inlet manifold, the GT-R uses that "low-along-the-side" style. The GTS4 also doesn't run the clutch booster - that's why I'm suggesting the possibility of interference.

But, hey, your money, your time, your disappointment when you realize how under-powered the RB20DET really is in comparison with even a stock RB26DETT.

Ooh, don't forget to swap the GT-R front diff into the RB20.

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

^^

Oh believe me I know the power difference between the two, I have a GTS-t Type M now and in driving my friends bone stock GTR VS my GTS with an R34 NEO turbo @ 10psi with other goodies, his is still faster and more responsive. As for selling, I'd sell it to my friends shop who imports Skyline's here to Canada. He'll take it as a spare motor for his GTS-4 customer's. Again, I'm getting it for practically nothing and I don't mind selling it for practically nothing, hahaha all evens out.

The exhaust is the same between the two if your talking cat back. With the downpipe, well I will use the stock RB20 stuff. I'll look in to that clearence issue though and thanks for pointing it all out to me and for the other clerification too. I appreciate man :(.

Cheers :P

Edited by sidewazegtst
sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
HAHA Bruce what are you up to now??.. GTR GTS-4.. where are you getting all this from..??

LOL, don't worry man I'll fill ya in soon. :wave:

This isn't even a for sure thing yet, but it is something I have mind. Just gathering some intell from the people who have a TON of experience and who's advice/information I respect.

Edited by sidewazegtst

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...