Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Brakes

HolyEvil
 Share

Recommended Posts

HolyEvil Community Regular

HolyEvil

Posted
Posted

hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

How about just drive the car. A normal application of the brakes will ordinarily remove surface rust (unless the rotors have been soaking in water for months).

I find often my rotors develop a light rust layer, particulary after the car gets a bath, or if it has rained.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2658011
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly.

The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted.

Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop.

There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2659945
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660759
Share on other sites
HolyEvil Community Regular

HolyEvil

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

hi there the rust on the rotors are no more, but the rust on the small circle around the rotors is still there and i that was what i really wanna get rid off.. i'll post a picture tomorrow, cuz it's too dark outside for a proper photoshoot =)

a R34 GT-4 is a non turbo skyline running on 4wd.. like a wrx? so i can't get like a deep dish at the rear.

so next time my pads wear out, i'll just get it changed at the brake shop and get them to machine it for me at the same time? but how do you get all 4 rotors out? what's your car standing on then?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660913
Share on other sites
R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
Hi there.. attached are photos of the area of the rotor where there are rust.. and which i would like to get rid of.. if i get the rotors machined, would this area be covered?

thanks

No that part does not get touched. Only the face that is touched by the pads gets machined.

What works easy is simply get a can of black VHT paint, place a rag over the caliper and spray that area (the hat) turn the disc around by hand as you do. If a little bit of overspray gets on the disc it really doesn't matter. As soon as you drive the car the pads will take it off the very second you touch the brake. Ends up looking perfect and the high temp paint seems to hold up ok (looks better than rust anyhow)

I used to do this every so often when changing wheels or pads and it keeps them looking good at takes just a few seconds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2664566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...