Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after an intake mani cos im about to fit my new extractors and a new manifold gasket so the intake mani has to come off and while it's off i want to get it powder coated black and put an RB20 or RB25 throttle body i forget which on is compatable but i cant go with out my car for a few weeks while it's getting powder coated but anyway if some one has just a bare manifold that is un dammaged that they want to off load cheap that would be great otherwise i guess i will have two go two u-pull-it

Edited by the big JC

Hey mate i have one for ya. sms me whenever on 0423 464 288 if you keen with how much you wanna pay and whereabouts you live and i will get back to ya... I'm on northern side of town but have trade school at o'halloran hill this week so i can deliver. Will throw it in the boot of the 32 in the morning if i remember.

Cheers dude

Dwayne

one more thing can some one tell me which Tb to use the RB20 or the RB25 there was a thread on it either here or on SDU not long ago but i cant find it now

Powder coating will do shit!

HPC is the go and on an inlet manifold bright silver would be the go, but the exhaust should be black, as it's the best HPC for containing the heat.

If your L24 is still stock, stay with the L24 or maybe L28 throttle body, but if it's a hotty, the KA24E off the U12 Pintara or RB25DE TB's will fit, both are 65mm but they aren't going to help you much unless the motor is a bit better than standard.

Cheers, D

Powder coating will do shit!

HPC is the go and on an inlet manifold bright silver would be the go, but the exhaust should be black, as it's the best HPC for containing the heat.

If your L24 is still stock, stay with the L24 or maybe L28 throttle body, but if it's a hotty, the KA24E off the U12 Pintara or RB25DE TB's will fit, both are 65mm but they aren't going to help you much unless the motor is a bit better than standard.

Cheers, D

ive got a full exhaust, extractors, cold air intake, coil, leads, and ive got a crow cam, a cressida afm, and a MSD 6A igniton controller coming in the next few months

ive got a full exhaust, extractors, cold air intake, coil, leads, and ive got a crow cam, a cressida afm, and a MSD 6A igniton controller coming in the next few months

Cressida AFM???????

I have one I'm about to toss in the bin off my old 7MGE.

You want that??

Cheers, D

what ive read is that with the L28 afm you can swap the guts out of that in to the cressida amf which is 34% larger so it might work for the L24 if you want i can give you the link to the site

what ive read is that with the L28 afm you can swap the guts out of that in to the cressida amf which is 34% larger so it might work for the L24 if you want i can give you the link to the site

That would make an interesting read.

If you could I would be interested.

I have an L28ET AFM & ECU ex USA and the original RB25DE AFM and I'm led to believe that the RB25DE AFM can be re calibrated to flow the same as the L28ET and maybe the same as the Z32.

We have a place in Sydney called A F I (Australian Fuel Injection) and they claim to be able to do the modification.

IF this is possible, the RB25DE is by far the bigger of the three and is using more modern technology.

Cheers, D

this is the link to the site http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

and this is the one directly to the afm info http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm...rade/index.html

have a look at the the pictures of the cressida afm on the site and see if its the same as the one you have and if it is then i will take it if you dont want it then i can try it for myself i think it will work they look identical to the l24e ones and the l28 afms arent much different to the l24.

let me know cheers JC

this is the link to the site http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

and this is the one directly to the afm info http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm...rade/index.html

have a look at the the pictures of the cressida afm on the site and see if its the same as the one you have and if it is then i will take it if you dont want it then i can try it for myself i think it will work they look identical to the l24e ones and the l28 afms arent much different to the l24.

let me know cheers JC

Looks very interesting, but I'm going to have to compare the Cressida and the 280ZX turbo units before I will make a better assumption.

Cheers, D

im still looking for a manifold and also for a KA24E throttle body so could some one point me in the right direction to be looking 4 a KA24E TB

You will find KA24E's in U12 Pintara T & Ti plus Corsair Ghia.

I have both KA24E & RB25DE but don't know which way I'm going yet.

When your dead set doing the turbo conversion talk to me then. By then I will probably have a better idea on which one I plan to use.

As for the manifold, I might have that sorted too, but it's going to be time.

Cheers, D

You will find KA24E's in U12 Pintara T & Ti plus Corsair Ghia.

I have both KA24E & RB25DE but don't know which way I'm going yet.

When your dead set doing the turbo conversion talk to me then. By then I will probably have a better idea on which one I plan to use.

As for the manifold, I might have that sorted too, but it's going to be time.

Cheers, D

i think i might only need the TB as im getting my extractors fitted this wk end so the inlet mani has to come off to fit a new mani gasket and i think im going to just leave the manifold off for a wk so i can get it painted and slap the new TB on i think im gonna have to go to my local Nissan wreckers to get the TB which i dont like doing because they are the most useless people and they will rip you off any chance they can get they have got a set of DR30 tail lights that they are trying to flog for $400 i only paid $80 for mine and there isint a scratch on them.

If you get a chance over the wk end can you measure the in let and outlet side of that Cressida afm so i can see if it is any bigger than myn and can you tell me which model cressida its off cos i thourght that i might have a look around at a few wreckers this week for one .

As for the turbo conversion that is still gonna happen altho i have been thinking about just getting an L20ET cos im trying to set my car up 4 drifting but i think im gonna set the suspention up first

one more thing is there any difference size wise between the KA24 and RB25 Tb's

i think im gonna have to go to my local Nissan wreckers to get the TB which i dont like doing because they are the most useless people and they will rip you off any chance they can get they have got a set of DR30 tail lights that they are trying to flog for $400 i only paid $80 for mine and there isint a scratch on them.

yeah the dirty shits were trying to sell them for $570 or something a while ago i thought it was way too pricey and i've seen a few pinny's with the ka24e out at u pull it if you want that throttle body and wouldnt the same go for the ford model whichever it is corsair i think have the same engine? coz its the same body so would that work the same?

cheers Paul

one more thing is there any difference size wise between the KA24 and RB25 Tb's

No! both are 65mm.

As for an L20et? Do it to an L24E or L28E, and find an FJ20DET turbo.

Common practice in US is fitting the L20ET system, onto 240Z's

It will have bags of drifting power then.

Cheers, D

Hey let me know where you are and i can get you one for way less than that,

im a member of antrx.com, a Pintara KA24e enthusiast site, there are about 4 2.4lt cars being wrecked right now, I just got one for my L24et project for $20.... I will go an put up a WTB post for you if you like...

sms me on 0404 577 263 if you want me to do it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...