Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey,

I was just wondering...

Would an NA R32 RB20DE beat a commodore or falcon v6 off the lights?

My skyline has no mods ATM, and all my m8s commos and falcons don;t either

I wouldn't think so.

All though peak power might make the power to weight look ok its the average power accelerating to that peak power that is lacking. The 2ltr really is too small for the 1320kg R32.

A good example of this is pull up next to a VL 5speed RB30E. ~116fwkw or there abouts. Mine made 80rwkw bone stock back in the day but it used to whoop 3.8ltr manual commo's. Well not whoop but just edge them out in the top end. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2649730
Share on other sites

when i had an auto n/a 3 litre, i had no chance againts auto vs commys, used to race my mates commys all the time, could never get em off the line.. u would expect the n/a r34s to beat commys n falcons wouldnt u ?? rb25de

Edited by GTR Power
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2650301
Share on other sites

Yep the Vl auto box's are like rubber bands. :P

+ the 3ltr doesn't have that much down low so the only option is a manual where you can bring the rev's up and play fair. :(

I found the manual VN-VS's to feel a little sluggish off the line actually. Its as if the auto actually help them lunge off the line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2650381
Share on other sites

it really depends on the driver of each car, and what model commodore. the later model, like vx and vy are heavier than the vr/vs. they have a touch more power though.

the skyline may have the same power, and be a touch lighter, but it is well down on torque. this means that you have to rev harder to get the power, where as a big aussie 6 will pull from lower in the rev range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2650596
Share on other sites

Hey,

I was just wondering...

Would an NA R32 RB20DE beat a commodore or falcon v6 off the lights?

My skyline has no mods ATM, and all my m8s commos and falcons don;t either

Teh Falcon V6 can nevah lose!!!!!!

...because they don't exist.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2651521
Share on other sites

I've driven VX/VZ commdores and they weren't too great. A R34 non turbo would beat them no problemo if you let them rev up.

Current model falcons on the other hand are hell fast, I've floored an auto BA series 2 falcon and it gave atleast as much g-force as a stock auto R34 GT-T no shit! The non-turbo R34s would definately be beaten by a BA falcon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2652242
Share on other sites

I didn't really ever want to get involved with this "this is faster than that" type thing... But my friend, who regularly rips me off decided to say my car (R32 4 Door, RB25DE) was a crappy Japanese peice of gay F***en s***. He really doesn't like imports or something, anyway he brought up this discussion which replied with nothing. I hate arguing.

Thing is, he rides dirt bikes... and just about every bike he has ridden/rides is Japanese. I don't see his point :S Typical Commodore lover, when he rips off Fords he looks at me because he knows I don't "support" Holdens... thing is I don't really "support" Fords either. I used to "prefer" them, haha in yr 6 but since I've been into imports I'm not much into Aussie Cars.

He said that his/my friend's mums VN Commo Auto Wagon, would beat my Skyline easily, now it may well be the truth I don't know, however he then went on to say that I would be there "changing gears" and from what I've read, Manuals are usually a quicker change, except from an auto racing box or something who cares. Then he said his Dad's VP Auto could beat my friends mums commodore... so in other words he said his dads car was really fast and my car was a piece of shit.

My car was weighed today: 1340kg. It's a Manual RB25DE R32 with pod and exhaust (soon :( hehe) vs a VN Commo Auto Wagon... 1500kg?

Anyway I'm just sick of him ripping of mine/my family's cars too... he continuenly says my Dad's E46 328Ci is a piece of crap etc etc. I think people should get over the "this would beat that" thing.

-Jimmy.

Edited by -Jimmy-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-2652948
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

The best way to find out is to have a race?

but think about it this way,

its a 2.0ltr vs a 3.8

the commodore rightfully should win as it is a much bigger and more pwerful enigne, regardless of the few extra kilo's the commonwhore is dragging around.

the falcodores autos dont help them as stock they are shit family cars but a manual version would win easily.

my N/A Rb25de beats them easy but the newer models are a bit faster.

the Rb20de doesnt have enough power, so basically get a turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-3283250
Share on other sites

The best way to find out is to have a race?

but think about it this way,

its a 2.0ltr vs a 3.8

the commodore rightfully should win as it is a much bigger and more pwerful enigne, regardless of the few extra kilo's the commonwhore is dragging around.

the falcodores autos dont help them as stock they are shit family cars but a manual version would win easily.

my N/A Rb25de beats them easy but the newer models are a bit faster.

the Rb20de doesnt have enough power, so basically get a turbo.

Rubbish, you'll be surprised what an RB20DE will do with some light mods. Don't just write them off. :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-3283619
Share on other sites

there are too many variables. it depends on model commodore/falcon as a vn/vp is much lighter than a vt/vx (infact they are about the same weight as a r32), but then the vx will put out about 30-40hp more on a dyno.

if it was standard manual ea falcon (s-pac) vs manual vp commodore, vs manual rb20de, i would say the order would be probably falcon, commodore, skyline. i used to own a manual s-pac ea falcon and they don't actually go that bad. i did it with those models as they are all about the same age.

if you were to change that scenario to late model cars, and add in a magna then the order would change slightly. the order would be something like: magna, falcon, skyline, commodore

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-3284023
Share on other sites

Okay.

My Supra held dead level, with a R34 GTT (Auto in both)

Later on, I got my rear end handed to me by a V8 VN with an exhaust.

Basically, the R32 would most likley be beaten down like my Supra against a V8 in the VN.

Now against the V6, on the roll, I just start to loose out.

So I'd be hazarding a guess, that the R32 would loose out too (BTW, my Supra IS twin turbo)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142303-vrs-falcodore/#findComment-3284240
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...