Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Body Work/kit Workshop Needed.


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Hypothetical case here.... :D

A person backed into my car, but thing is my front bar was already damaged, they don't know that.

Basically I want a list of reputable or good bodywork places that you guys actually trust with your car. I just want to get about 2 - 3 quotes. I don't wanna go with the insurance company's dodgy brothers panel beaters so if you guys could list a couple of places you trust I would greatly appreciate it.

South-East suburbs if possible. :D

What I'm trying to do is scam insurance slightly. :rofl:

I'm going to ask the place to do a quote for me on a aftermarket front bar instead of a stock 2nd handy with the reason being it was impossible to source a 2nd hand of the exact front bar, so the next cheapest kit up is what I want. :D

Anyone here done something similar and how easy do insurance companies go along with that?

Thanks for your help guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142772-good-body-workkit-workshop-needed/
Share on other sites

Just picked up my 33 from DT panels in Springvale today, man im gonna be hard for ages!!!

Top job, top prices!! When my S14's ready(if ever) ill be taking that to DT also!!

SS8 Gohan also had his 34 painted there.

No problem, 12 Lightwood Drive Springvale, near the station.

He did all the Topstage cars @ MAS, Nismo Racer post up some pics of your beast!!!

No pics yet Dezz, i dun wanna get flamed for having chromies and airbrush(still to come) :P

Mate i swear by Gals Smash Repairs.

Hes in Tullamarine but he did a Smick job of my car and i cant fault dave at all.

Hes a top guy..

9335 2599. Speak to Dave tell him you know Matt with the Skyline..

I also know of a few other here who will agree to his work..

PM me if you have any questions...

Hey guys,

Hypothetical case here.... :)

A person backed into my car, but thing is my front bar was already damaged, they don't know that.

Basically I want a list of reputable or good bodywork places that you guys actually trust with your car. I just want to get about 2 - 3 quotes. I don't wanna go with the insurance company's dodgy brothers panel beaters so if you guys could list a couple of places you trust I would greatly appreciate it.

South-East suburbs if possible. :)

What I'm trying to do is scam insurance slightly. :yes:

I'm going to ask the place to do a quote for me on a aftermarket front bar instead of a stock 2nd handy with the reason being it was impossible to source a 2nd hand of the exact front bar, so the next cheapest kit up is what I want. :P

Anyone here done something similar and how easy do insurance companies go along with that?

Thanks for your help guys!

Police Road Panel Service4 Police Rd Springvale 3171(03) 9558 5110

My son works there. Do yourself a favour. Ask for Harry and say Alan told you to go there

i heard some real bad things about most of the shops near spingvale station.....seems as though all their VACC certs have been taken away.....

i dunno might just all be bs....but id take the effort to ask if they are still certified

"No problem, 12 Lightwood Drive Springvale, near the station.

He did all the Topstage cars @ MAS, Nismo Racer post up some pics of your beast!!!

No pics yet Dezz, i dun wanna get flamed for having chromies and airbrush(still to come)"

Yeah, DT is the place to be, btw which 33 is urs? ABuSD

http://www.childish.fotopic.net/

Edited by Nismo Racer
Mate i swear by Gals Smash Repairs.

Hes in Tullamarine but he did a Smick job of my car and i cant fault dave at all.

Hes a top guy..

9335 2599. Speak to Dave tell him you know Matt with the Skyline..

I also know of a few other here who will agree to his work..

PM me if you have any questions...

i am one of the people that agree with matt

they worked on my car in april and it came back to me looking better than it did when i first brought it

i was very happy with their work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...