Jump to content
SAU Community

What Rotors Do I Have?

Samon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

The brakes on my 33 GTS have been squeeking a bit lately, so today I decided to pull a wheel or two off and have a look at them. Popped the front wheel off, took off the caliper and pads, took off the rotor and measured the thickness with a micrometer. It was 21.3mm. I have looked at the DBA Catalogue but can't find the specs for an R33 non-turbo. Not 100% sure why (I believe it's because I have an LSD, but not really sure) but I have 5 wheel studs... even though it's a non-turbo... meh anyway the GTST is specified as having a 28mm minimum thickness on the front rotors... this means that either my rotors are 6.7mm under the minimum, or I have totally different brakes.

After finding this I decided to take a look at the rears. I pulled the wheel off, took off the caliper, but couldn't manage to get the rotor off... anyway i again measured with the micrometer and found that these were 8.6mm thick. The DBA Catalogue specifies 16mm as the minimum for the R33 GTST, so again either my rotors are MASSIVLY undersize (by 7.4mm) or are not the correct discs. I also noted (not sure if this is normal or not) that while the front discs were ventilated, the rears were solid.

Basically what I want to know is what the specs are for the new/minimum thicknesses for the R33 GTS, and is it that my brakes are massively undersize or off a totally different car?

Edited by Samon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142810-what-rotors-do-i-have/
Share on other sites
Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not really sure if it means anything, but I also noted that I have twin-piston calipers on the front and single-piston calipers on the rear. Everything looks pretty standard under there.

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After looking through my R33 ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL that i bought off eBay, i found that there are two specifications for front-brakes: 20mm minimum for the single-pot calipers, and 24mm minimum for the twin-pot ones. For the rears it specifies an 8mm minimum.

I am rather confused. Where did DBA get the 28mm and 16mm from? Also, my rears are within the nissan specs, but my fronts are within the specs for the single-pot, even though it has twin-pots. From looking at my front rotors it is extremely hard to believe that they were EVER the 26mm that the manual specifies for the standard thickness for the twin-pot calipers, so I think I will just leave it all as is and see how it goes. I certainly have no problems stopping, and haven't noticed any brake fade occurring, so i think it's alright.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...