Jump to content
SAU Community

Fmic Fitting

thrtytwo

By thrtytwo,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Can't you do it yourself?

Its not really that hard to do, it was the first major thing I did to my car on my own. I don't mind coming and helping after exams either if you get stuck.

What FMIC have you got? just a china hybrid copy?

oh really, yeh i was thinking bout asking for help as i dont feel confident myself without instructions :yes:

id put in a carton of your choosing for the time :)

yeh its a hybrid copy, the seller assured me it fits good and other buyers rated it, but thats yet to be seen i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2663975
Share on other sites
fr0st Experienced

fr0st

Posted
Posted

My intercooler was a custom job that the previous owner gave me. It just hooked straight up to the stock piping so I didn't have to run a crossover pipe or anything. The crossover pipe isn't that much of an issue. IIRC the only things you need to do extra is chop the radiator fan a little so it clears the pipe and cut a hole for the piping. To do the hole you need a hole saw, the GTR and GTS-T chassis is the same so there a place all setup to cut.

The reo (front re-enforcement bar) and front bar need to be cut to fit the FMIC in there, its nothing too major that can't be solved with an angle grinder or jigsaw.

If you work fast you could get it done in under a day, mine took me a day and a half being my first time and all. If you do a search I'm fairly sure there are threads with pictures (might be for R33's but its virtually the same) for installs.

Give me 2 weeks and bottle of bourbon (not a beer person :yes:) and I'll come help you out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664049
Share on other sites
thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My intercooler was a custom job that the previous owner gave me. It just hooked straight up to the stock piping so I didn't have to run a crossover pipe or anything. The crossover pipe isn't that much of an issue. IIRC the only things you need to do extra is chop the radiator fan a little so it clears the pipe and cut a hole for the piping. To do the hole you need a hole saw, the GTR and GTS-T chassis is the same so there a place all setup to cut.

The reo (front re-enforcement bar) and front bar need to be cut to fit the FMIC in there, its nothing too major that can't be solved with an angle grinder or jigsaw.

If you work fast you could get it done in under a day, mine took me a day and a half being my first time and all. If you do a search I'm fairly sure there are threads with pictures (might be for R33's but its virtually the same) for installs.

Give me 2 weeks and bottle of bourbon (not a beer person :)) and I'll come help you out.

sounds liek a deal mate, ive got all the necessary tools !

wats ur poison ? cougar, jim beam ? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664074
Share on other sites
gazza750 Veteran

gazza750

Posted
Posted
sounds liek a deal mate, ive got all the necessary tools !

wats ur poison ? cougar, jim beam ? :)

buy him the sphincter of the universe its better :P

or try x speed top racing hyperdrive imports101 amongst a good many other places that can do it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664100
Share on other sites
thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
buy him the sphincter of the universe its better :P

or try x speed top racing hyperdrive imports101 amongst a good many other places that can do it

haha ill let him, decide :)

yeh i asked hyperdrive for a quote but they wont touch a copy cooler, fair enough i spose.

after that i asked extreem machines and they wanted about $400, other place said $380. I havnt shopped around a WHOLE lot, thought this would be quicker way to find out :)

thanks for reply though :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664144
Share on other sites
thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no a standard one

but they are good upgrades for rb20's

i was just making a point that the money you save from installing your fmic means you can buy other goodies.

yeh exactly ! :)

will go towards injectors or fuel pump...or AVCR...or power FC :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664395
Share on other sites
thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I can remap R32 ECU's aswell (useful arn't I? :P)

Go halves with tiesto in buying me a wideband and I'll do it for ya :)

haha whats a wideband, how much are they ? my guess is a lot ?

will need a remap at some point though

so might need your services :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664434
Share on other sites
R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted
haha ill let him, decide ;)

yeh i asked hyperdrive for a quote but they wont touch a copy cooler, fair enough i spose.

after that i asked extreem machines and they wanted about $400, other place said $380. I havnt shopped around a WHOLE lot, thought this would be quicker way to find out :P

thanks for reply though :)

Seriously, i would not use Extreme Machines. Not going into detail but if your going to use a workshop, find another one. Just my 2c

.

Also, isn't Paul at Autoworx in wangars supplying and fitting fmic for around $900 or $950?? Anyone had him fit one? Are the intercoolers any good?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142965-fmic-fitting/#findComment-2664850
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...