Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The S2 coils have ignitor built in, you can use them, providing you use the S2 coil loom and make up a plug that converts form the S1 ecu to s2 coils. I am using a S1 ignitor on my S2 as i am using a wasted spark setup with some AU s1 coils from a falcon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2670005
Share on other sites

Sounds like a lot of work.

I've just found an article relating to my question. It is said that the S2 came out with better Ignition and ECU. Is it possible to just replace the ECU and COILS with S2 on an S1? Has this been done before? If so what advantages and disadvantages can one expect? The article also said that S2's have NEO HEADS for enviromental reasons and also increased performance. Will this be an issue if i change my S1 COILS and ECU with an S2 as my cylinder heads is not a neo? (Unless maybe i repalced my cylinder head with an S2 Neo.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2672389
Share on other sites

as far as i know the ecu in S1 and S2 is exactly the same. The S2 have the ignitor built into each coil, which couses grater spark, but they are still crap, mine are ded big time.

As for the head, i am 99% sure its thesaem as the last S1. I think there was some differance with teh early S1 but not sure.

It's no big deal making up the setup i am going for. It will give me dam strong spark, and hopefully fix some of my problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2672655
Share on other sites

Im not sure what boost you are running but if you have ignition problems its probably due to the age of the coils, not the series. Or incorrect plug and gap. A new set of coils will be happy at 20psi+. Most aftermarket ECUs run the ignitors built in so they use series one coils. You can allways go to a MSD or CDI unit.

as far as i know the ecu in S1 and S2 is exactly the same. The S2 have the ignitor built into each coil, which couses grater spark, but they are still crap, mine are ded big time.

As for the head, i am 99% sure its thesaem as the last S1. I think there was some differance with teh early S1 but not sure.

It's no big deal making up the setup i am going for. It will give me dam strong spark, and hopefully fix some of my problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2676181
Share on other sites

Im running 10.5psi on a stock S1 turbo, Iridium plugs with gaps set at .8mm and it misfires between 4000 to 5000 rpm. The car has ran 130+000. what would be the ideal ignition system for the car? and what does wasted spark mean? By the way the car is Automatic (By preference) looking into upgrading the torque converter into high stall torque converter and a shift kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2679182
Share on other sites

Very easy fix, do a search for wasted spark, there is a main page there, all explained well.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-77431533.htm

But basicaly you change the system to fire two cylinders at once, 1 and 6 ect ect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2679266
Share on other sites

Very easy fix, do a search for wasted spark, there is a main page there, all explained well.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-77431533.htm

But basicaly you change the system to fire two cylinders at once, 1 and 6 ect ect.

I'll check it out. thanks for that link 'WogsRus' ! but can u give a brief on that? what sort of benefits/ advantage and disadvantages are there when changing to such system?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2679616
Share on other sites

main advantage is that the coil is wasy form the heat, and its just as strong if not a stronger spark, depending on what coil you use, then direct replacemnt splitfire coils. It cost about $100 for the coil, Au S1 is vest or VP commodore one. If you want to keep the original loom for the coils, a second hand one is about $30 use these to make the new loom. Custom leeds to suit length and tophat, $100 or $50 for generic ones to do best fit. Propably $10 for a custom bracket and your done. wire it all up and hay preston, new ignition, so thats about $250 at best, less then half that of splitfires.

As an advantage, if there is any fuel left in the syetm, on the exhaust stroke, the spark reignites the mixture, but this in reality doesn't happen as there is no fuel to burn, unless you have a problem. LOL.

So it mainly cost and efectivness. You can get this setup working for as little as $140 if you use secondhand parts. I have a S2 car so i need an ignitor aswell, and i am buying all new parts and all new connectors ect, and total cost is $300.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2679729
Share on other sites

Are you sure Toffy, i was not aware that it is different at all.

The S1 has external ignitor and S2 has internal on coils, still same signal. Hence why a PFC is valid for all years of R33.

I thought S2 came out with an improved ignition module and ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2700829
Share on other sites

Are you sure Toffy, i was not aware that it is different at all.

The S1 has external ignitor and S2 has internal on coils, still same signal. Hence why a PFC is valid for all years of R33.

theres heaps of minor differences actually, the main one being the tps (s2 has 2 small boxes on the throttle body and s1 has only one), the pfc would have provisions for either i believe, but ive never used one so i couldnt tell ya :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2701687
Share on other sites

yeah the S2 has two plugs on the TP but only uses one of them, the other is a blank, not connected, well it isn't in mine at all.

DAM IT i can get a mines ECU for buga all, but i don't want to see if it will work if it blows something up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143219-r-33-coil-packs/#findComment-2701850
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...