Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^ Dan, are you aware that N1 water pumps are only good for pure track cars? 5 minutes idling at the traffic lights in hot weather will pretty much cook your motor with an N1 water pump - as they are made for constant high revs and the anti-cavitation design of them causes very poor water circulation at low (idle) revs. Just a thought.

-clutch slave cylinder

-adjustable caster rods

-coilpacks

-eggs

-milk

-mail order bride

...and a partridge in a pear tree

Srsly danski, u should delete the sarcasm if u want nizzlz to take u srsly over the wtb thread. it srs bsns.

-D

^^^ Dan, are you aware that N1 water pumps are only good for pure track cars? 5 minutes idling at the traffic lights in hot weather will pretty much cook your motor with an N1 water pump - as they are made for constant high revs and the anti-cavitation design of them causes very poor water circulation at low (idle) revs. Just a thought.

Hey andrew

I did some research after last time u told me this, and its the N1 Oil Pump that does this

the n1 water pump has no problems whatsoever, it actually eliminates low end cavitation without compromising top end

besides 5 minutes of idling in hot weather will not be caused solely by the water pump. the tubes, water pressure and rad core is also an issue..

srs, check it out, its the oil pumps. thats why im gonna stick with my stock oil pump, but the n1 is a worth upgrade

-D

EDIT - it may very well be a case also of supporting mods - i have new hose and 52mm radiator. that would help offset idle temps, however I really dont think a 52mm radiator does much more than a stocker when one is standing still ;P

Edited by Dohmar

WANTED SEMI URGENTLY

I NEED ATLEAST 4 235/40/18'S OR SIMILAR SIZE TYRES WITH ATLEAST 2MM TREAD ABOVE WEAR INDICATORS.

I DONT CARE ON BRANDS ETC THE CHEAPER THE BETTER.

I WILL TAKE MORE THAN 4 TYRES IF SOMEONE HAS A FEW SITTIN ROUND THEY WANT GONE.

PLEASE PM ME ONLY OR SMS ME AS I DONT CHECK IN THIS THREAD VERY OFTEN.

0402217466 THANKS BOYS.

^^^ WHY ARE YOU YELLING?

Hey andrew

I did some research after last time u told me this, and its the N1 Oil Pump that does this

the n1 water pump has no problems whatsoever, it actually eliminates low end cavitation without compromising top end

besides 5 minutes of idling in hot weather will not be caused solely by the water pump. the tubes, water pressure and rad core is also an issue..

srs, check it out, its the oil pumps. thats why im gonna stick with my stock oil pump, but the n1 is a worth upgrade

-D

EDIT - it may very well be a case also of supporting mods - i have new hose and 52mm radiator. that would help offset idle temps, however I really dont think a 52mm radiator does much more than a stocker when one is standing still ;P

ah, well that is a bit bizarre. That information was given to me by Craig at Main North Nissan, who knows his Skylines inside and out, backwards and forwards. I was going to put an N1 pump in mine when I replaced it and he advised me very strongly against it and told me the story I repeated. He talked me out of spending extra $$ on the N1 pump, so it was actually against Nissan's interest to tell me that.

Weird.

But let me guarantee you - when your water pump is not working properly (like mine wasn't) then you easily cook your car and hit 100 degrees in 5 minutes flat in hot weather .... I can assure you that as fact. Despite me having an aftermarket radiator, oil cooler and twin thermos it STILL cooked, as the water pump was transporting very little water around the engine. It is a heat transfer system, so if the pump is not pumping enough water around, you cook. Easy as that.

The design of the N1 pumps is much more hollowed out on the outer housing which stops the top end cavitation. This does however result in much lower flow during lower engine revs/revolutions of the water pump/belts. Think about the logic.

I am just repeating what I was told by Nissan's top parts guy in Aus :) He sells a LOT of Skyline parts to a LOT of punters, and businesses alike.

Hey Chad, next 35+ degree day go warm up your car then let it sit out in the sun and idle for 10 minutes. I bet you your water temp reaches and exceeds 100 degrees C! Might be good to test out the theory and graph the temps. But hey, if yours works fine then maybe I am wrong.

ah, well that is a bit bizarre. That information was given to me by Craig at Main North Nissan, who knows his Skylines inside and out, backwards and forwards. I was going to put an N1 pump in mine when I replaced it and he advised me very strongly against it and told me the story I repeated. He talked me out of spending extra $ on the N1 pump, so it was actually against Nissan's interest to tell me that.

IIRC the stock water pump is the same price as the N1? Loads of other people running N1's on their dailies... SLED's old beast had one I'm pretty sure (since pete organized the group buy in the first place)...

anyone else?

Sorry for OT.

-D

Edit - Main North Nissan eh? I rang them up to ask about HICAS repair or Consult codes and the guy on the phone had NFI what I was talking about :|

Edited by Dohmar

WTB if u have any of there please call me on 0425313447 thanks :P

  • rb25neo turbo
  • 3 2in gauges for the centre console, just white faced, anything from boost, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, zorst gas temp, volts etc etc not fussed
  • a boost controler, just a set and leave underbonnet one for now.
  • boch 040 or similar

thats it for now im taking a look at a set of coil overs today or tomoro so ill c how that goes but if u have cheap coilovers please pm or call me. prefer base height adjustable but beggers cant be choosers :D

thanks - adrian

WTB if u have any of there please call me on 0425313447 thanks :thumbsup:

  • rb25neo turbo
  • 3 2in gauges for the centre console, just white faced, anything from boost, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, zorst gas temp, volts etc etc not fussed
  • a boost controler, just a set and leave underbonnet one for now.
  • boch 040 or similar

thats it for now im taking a look at a set of coil overs today or tomoro so ill c how that goes but if u have cheap coilovers please pm or call me. prefer base height adjustable but beggers cant be choosers :banana:

thanks - adrian

and here i was thinkin u were selling your car. ha ha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...