Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all. sorry if this is an issue thats been covered before.

i have an r32 powered by the rb20det. i have a long list of mods (most of which have been purchased but havent been installed yet but will be very soon :P ) which are as follows

GT3071r (apparently) with .64 rear and .70 compressor (externaly gated)

r32 gtr intercooler

power fc

oil cooler

3inch exhaust turbo back

suitable injectors and fuel pump

excedy h/d clutch

z32 A/F meter

my aim is approximately 230-240 rwkw.

the question is what would be the best various sizes of intercooler piping?

should i go turbo->2"->intercooler->3"->throttle body

or turbo->3"->intercooler->3"->throttle body

or turbo->2"->intercooler->2"->throttly body

also note that the end tanks on the cooler are 3" and the throttlebody and turbo outlet are both 2"

Does it even really matter? :dry:

thanks in advance.

james.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143759-what-piping-size-to-use/
Share on other sites

sometimes a little larger when going around a sharp turn helps the airflow. you sometimes see elbows in factory turbo cars that are larger diameter than the rest of the pipework. They usually have a reducer flexible pipe to attach to the smaller pipes on either side.

The 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch is probably about right for the 260-280kw worth of airflow ( 240rwkw ). Like anything make sure you have as short a path as you can, try to avoid sharp bends in the pipework and where there are bends ensure they are well made (I guess most are these days).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...