Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paul22, this may interest you!

"L28 TURBO ENGINE 4 SALE - This engine was built by SWR & runs a P90 turbo head, T3 turbo, EFI manifold with 300ZX 55mm T/B, Wolf 3D ECU, FJ20 turbo injectors, electronic ignition, 125kw@w on 8psi boost & has only travelled 15,000 kms. It also comes with the electric fuel pump & swirl pot, a 2.5" exhaust system & the modified rev tacho. Engine is still in the car (260Z), can hear it run & test drive. All relevant paperwork & receipts are also available for viewing.

Price: $4500ono Location: Wollongong

Contact: Nick Email: [email protected]

Phone: 0416 283 194 (hours: 9am-9pm)".

Now, I know it's a Z engine & will reqire the sump mod which I will do if you're keen on this engine.

Ghostrider is right, this costs alot of money so be prepared to spend heaps.

Oh, & Ghostrider... 86mm/87mm pistons will go in a L24, I built one a couple of years back with triple webbers & it made 135kw@wheels, it's a daily driver & also does track work from time to time & is still going strong. However, I wouldn't do it to a turbo engine...

Nick.

Appreciate that but I am pretty keen to build my own engine and use my existing block so the numbers match. i understand that mods such as these require a lot of time and cash.

Thanks,

Paul

Oh, & Ghostrider... 86mm/87mm pistons will go in a L24, I built one a couple of years back with triple webbers & it made 135kw@wheels, it's a daily driver & also does track work from time to time & is still going strong. However, I wouldn't do it to a turbo engine...

Nick.

Nick, your possibly right.

I could probably fit them into an L20A block too, but the water jackets would be a bit large.

Your quoting SWR as an engine builder? Stewart Wilkins will never recommend an over bore of 4.0mm in any L series block. The cylinder walls would be paper thin and very suspect to failure.

You might have done it, but I'm sure not going to try.

I have 2 x F54 blocks and they wont take a 3.0mm over bore, as I had them sonic tested to find out, as I was going to build an 2968 engine, but am settling for 2818 instead.

I don't know that these guys would want to be doing it either, but I suppose ANYTHING is possible if you want it enough.

Cheers, D

im wondering that too, theres a few L28 (carbied) engines at my wreckers.... i can get one for $20!!!

The factory cams have codes stamped in the back end face and the L24E cam is NOT really suitable for a turbo application, but it has been used in the past.

The best off the shelf cams are L28E and will have the markings A or F stamped in the back.

The A cam came from engines origin prior to 8/81 and were in N42/N47 & P79 heads and F cams came from 9/81 onwards in P79 heads only.

Cheers, D.

The factory cams have codes stamped in the back end face and the L24E cam is NOT really suitable for a turbo application, but it has been used in the past.

The best off the shelf cams are L28E and will have the markings A or F stamped in the back.

The A cam came from engines origin prior to 8/81 and were in N42/N47 & P79 heads and F cams came from 9/81 onwards in P79 heads only.

Cheers, D.

will the L28 cam go alright in a N/A l24e and what difference will it make

will the L28 cam go alright in a N/A l24e and what difference will it make

Make up your mind!

You going Turbo or N/a??

Best of best off the shelf n/a cams is the one stamped C and it was in all E88 headed 260Z.

It is reputedly the Nismo works cam.

Nick, your possibly right.

I could probably fit them into an L20A block too, but the water jackets would be a bit large.

Your quoting SWR as an engine builder? Stewart Wilkins will never recommend an over bore of 4.0mm in any L series block. The cylinder walls would be paper thin and very suspect to failure.

You might have done it, but I'm sure not going to try.

I have 2 x F54 blocks and they wont take a 3.0mm over bore, as I had them sonic tested to find out, as I was going to build an 2968 engine, but am settling for 2818 instead.

I don't know that these guys would want to be doing it either, but I suppose ANYTHING is possible if you want it enough.

Cheers, D

Ghostrider, I failed to clarify that the engine I built was 3mm over bore & not 4mm but have seen it done... I agree 4mm is playing with fire. In N/A trim 3mm is safe as long as the block is acceptable after sonic testing.

Paul... if you need pistons etc, I have a brand new set of 86mm with rings for $300.

Nick.

Ghostrider, I failed to clarify that the engine I built was 3mm over bore & not 4mm but have seen it done... I agree 4mm is playing with fire. In N/A trim 3mm is safe as long as the block is acceptable after sonic testing.

Paul... if you need pistons etc, I have a brand new set of 86mm with rings for $300.

Nick.

Yeah! for sure.

I talk with SWR a lot and I was going to put an 87mm bore into my L20A and use sleeves, but the cost was preventative. The block would loose all of it's rigidity and it would be a mamouth task to complete and with custom liners, the bill would exceed $1500 after decking, recess grooving etc etc etc, so the F54 was obviously the better alternative.

These pistons & rings you have? Are they FLAT TOP and are the rings CHROME??

Cheers, D

Yeah! for sure.

I talk with SWR a lot and I was going to put an 87mm bore into my L20A and use sleeves, but the cost was preventative. The block would loose all of it's rigidity and it would be a mamouth task to complete and with custom liners, the bill would exceed $1500 after decking, recess grooving etc etc etc, so the F54 was obviously the better alternative.

These pistons & rings you have? Are they FLAT TOP and are the rings CHROME??

Cheers, D

Pistons are dished & rings are chrome.

Nick.

Yeah! for sure.

I talk with SWR a lot and I was going to put an 87mm bore into my L20A and use sleeves, but the cost was preventative. The block would loose all of it's rigidity and it would be a mamouth task to complete and with custom liners, the bill would exceed $1500 after decking, recess grooving etc etc etc, so the F54 was obviously the better alternative.

These pistons & rings you have? Are they FLAT TOP and are the rings CHROME??

Cheers, D

Just to let you know my plans, I'm building 2 N/A L28's at the moment using L14 rods. the 1st I'm using 86mm SR20DET pistons & E88 Skyline head with N42 valves (I believe it to be the best head combo to use), & the other I'm using 87mm VG30 flat tops with N42 or N47 round port.

Nick.

Make up your mind!

You going Turbo or N/a??

Best of best off the shelf n/a cams is the one stamped C and it was in all E88 headed 260Z.

It is reputedly the Nismo works cam.

i am going turbo i just wanted to know if i can put the cam the engine now or should i wait till its turboed.

I will do a bit of hunting around for one of those 260z cams

Yes F54 block is what you want I think.

Lots of goof info on OZDAT forums

F54's were the 280ZX Turbo block and in turbo form, never came to Australia, but some of our n/a 280's had F54 blocks in them, but as far as I know, F54 blocks never came out in 260Z's.

And JC the cam would be fine, now or later.

Cheers, D

Just don't play your hand when looking for the 260 cam, not everyone knows, but I'm sure if you tell them the price will go through the roof.

The 260 cam has 256 duration and for your relative stock L24E turbo, it will probably be a little long and the L28 cam should be easier to get.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...