Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wanting to see what kind of interest there is in the parts on my R34GTT as im looking at putting it back to standard before i sell. feel free to make offers on prices

cheers

Maurice

Item: Apexi power FC w hand controller

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: SOLD

Pictures: everyone knows what they look like

Item: ARC front mount intercooler (comes with all piping,hoses,clamps etc)

Location: sydney

Website: www.arcinter.co.jp

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: $700 + standard cooler $1000 without replacement

Item: Work meister 255 x cant remember the profile x 18 nankan rubbers front yokahama rear

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: $1000 + any crappy rims to replace $1500 without replacement

Pictures: will post tonight

Item: Profec B spec II boost controller

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: $400. retail approx $560

Pictures: will post tonight

Item: momo gear knob

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: $50

Pictures: will post tonight

Item: Nismo gauge cluster and dash w 300km speedo

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: not sure of the value make an offer. would like replacement swap

Pictures: will post tonight

Item: Tein HA coilover suspension

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: SOLD

Pictures: will post tonight

Item: Turbo back exhaust with canon muffler (liverpool exhaust)

Location: sydney

Website:

Item Condition: used

Reason for selling: selling car

Price and price conditions: SOLD

Pictures: will post tonight

may add more parts as they come to my attention.

Edited by ssslpr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144264-eoi-various-r34-gtt-parts/
Share on other sites

I will take the PFC as long as its still working. Might be interested in the Profec if its Black and the Nismo Cluster depending on kms. Location in Sydney?

PM sent as well.

  • 2 weeks later...
sorry guys been busy as hell. have replied to all Pm's.

not sure if i wanna get rid of the rear wing alone as i will have holes in the boot otherwise.

cheers

Nope no PM, can you let me know what the go is with the Cluster and Gauges, thanks mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...