Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking For L24, L26 Or L28 Engine Sydney

NISMO

By NISMO,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
Posted

hi guys,

needs some help fining an engine for my C210.

The motor stopped on me yesterday, and was about to take the plates back to the RTA, and chuck the thing, but for some reason really don't want to get rid of it. My current motor has really had it, was barely starting as it was, and I'm looking to make the thing as realiable as possible for a 30yr old car.

I've spoken to a few places this morning for a full recondition and I'm looking at over $1500.

So if anyone know's of a working motor - L24, L26 or L28 in Sydney, please let me know.

The car is a 78 Coupe, auto, but will do a manual conversion now as well.

thanks

YO880 Mentor

YO880

Posted
Posted

hi mate,

i am not sure if it is helpfull, but i have most of an L24 that you can have. I am not sure about it's condition (it has been covered in plastic, but outside for the last 2 years.. i also have a 5 speed manual you can have.

again, i have to stress, i have no idea what good these are., they came with a shell i bought. but you are more than welcome to them if you want to pick them up. i think they were originally from z's

pm me if your interested..

nixcars Collaborator

nixcars

Posted
Posted
hi mate,

i am not sure if it is helpfull, but i have most of an L24 that you can have. I am not sure about it's condition (it has been covered in plastic, but outside for the last 2 years.. i also have a 5 speed manual you can have.

again, i have to stress, i have no idea what good these are., they came with a shell i bought. but you are more than welcome to them if you want to pick them up. i think they were originally from z's

pm me if your interested..

Hey Kent,

If they are from a Z, what head is on the block, E30, E31, E88, or N42?

Nick.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys.

Car is back up and running, cost me an arm and a leg in parts. All up $1.50 for 1 resistor :-)

Was ready to take plates back to the RTA, but couldn't part with the car. I think I'm nuts, but I really enjoy driving this thing. :-)

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guys,

I might be able to get my hands on an L26, with 5sp manual out of a Z, which was apparantly reconditioned only 20000k's ago. My understanding is that this would be a straight bolt in job.

Is it worth the hassle to swap out my L24 in the C210 for this? I've currently got an auto, but can get my hands on a gearbox quite easily, so the big issue is the motor.

What would you pay for an L26 motor and 5sp?

Cheers

REDNECK Rookie

REDNECK

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi mate i got a r30 skyline and thought about puttin an l26 in it but thought nothin gunna beat cubic inches

if u want more go. go the bigger l28 engine

ezy bolt in and it will run your carbies exhust to

all u have to do is put your sump and oil pick up in it

cheers

Edited by REDNECK
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

If your L24/box is on it's way out, and it's the right price, is really is nice and fresh, and has well sorted twin carbies I'd really consider the L26; better head with bigger valves and pick of the cams, you can keep virtually everything off your L24 as a spare and its much better to do the box and block as a unit rather than seperately. Not to mention the relative ease of bolting it in. An L26 into a C210 was my first and only engine swap and I managed to do 99% of it solo, and Im known to be a truely crappy mechanic. You can save your cash for other bits... unless of course someone has a really sweet L28 for you, in which case I entirely agree with everything Mr Neck said above.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What's the deal with the L28's from a patrol?

are all variants good for an upgrade? are they set up different to the L28's from a Z? and would anything need to be changed on the engine if I'm putting it on a c210?

thanks

paulmac Community Regular

paulmac

Posted
Posted

i wouldnt bother with an l28 out of a patrol i thought they were 4wd and had front mounted something a rather opposed to the 280zx l28 but im not too sure on what exactly needs doing but more work then worth it i was told when i was thinking about it

cheers paul.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

IIRC, the Zs have the bowl of the sump in the middle, while the C210 / Skylines have the bowl near the front.

This may be the advantage of using the Patrol L28 over the 280Z L28.

  • 2 weeks later...
REDNECK Rookie

REDNECK

Posted
Posted

hey guys for an l28 swap in to a c210 is put your sump and pick up on it

every thing else external is the same if u got an electronic dizzy chuck thet in and with a well tuned set of carbies u'll be tearing the tar up in no time

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...