Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing My Hks2530

DriftSquad

By DriftSquad,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DriftSquad Experienced

DriftSquad

Posted
Posted

hey i started installing my hks turbo 2day. i have pulled the stock turbo out compleatly.

now just by looking at the 2 turbos side my side i can see that there very similer. just a question on the oil drain? how did u go about doing it? i have a new drain piece but its only about, 2 1/2 - 3 inches long. can i just add another hose there and clamp it? also at the bottem of the new turbo the water out is smaller. could i just link up a braided line? where can i get these from?

any 1 who has done this installation please klet me know how u went about these last steps? thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144663-installing-my-hks2530/
Share on other sites
DriftSquad Experienced

DriftSquad

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks mate your comment realy helped. im asking the people who have done this before. the turbo was brought from a skylines australia member.

p.s stevo said your a tossa..

Edited by DriftSquad
Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
Posted
i don't know how to build a house... so i don't

What a crock of shit. At least he's having a go, how the hell else are you supposed to learn. Believe it or not, people aren't just born with a spanner in their hand. Why even go to the effort of posting. What help does it offer apart from helping him to realise that you're a wanker. There a clearly a few people on these forums who might be able to give the bloke some direction without from telling him to go to a mechanic.

Not everyone has the money to pay someone else to do it.

Driftsquad: Sorry I can't be of any help mate, I'm sure someone will be able to provide some helpful advice. Good onya fo havin a go though.

jaik Mentor

jaik

Posted
Posted

Gday

Oil Drain - Yes just get some decent rubber hose that is exactly the right size and use that to connect the oil drain off the turbo and to the sump.

For the water line there is no need for braided line, its only low pressure water. Just get a banjo fitting that will suit the size of the turbo and the water inlet to the banjo to be about the same size as the line.

I just put a HKS GT2835 on my RB20 and It couldnt have been easier :)

JK

OZ_Pomy Rising Star

OZ_Pomy

Posted
Posted

Hey drift squad i also just put a HKS 2535 on my r33 gts-t for the oil return line i went down to pirtek and got a hose to connect it all togethor. The problem was the hose i got was to heavy duty and would just kink so i had to cut this hose in half then get an adapter to connect the 2 hoses togethor, this gave it just the rite angle to finish conecting up the oil return line. Hope this helps and goodluck with the install let us all know the results :D

DriftSquad Experienced

DriftSquad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey guys thanks for the help! for my oil drain i used a silicon style hose rated a 300 PSI and very think... i though it would do the job?

i just used the standard rubber hose thats on the bottem of the block, cuz its got nerly a 90 deg bend. then used a steal bit of house in the middle and clamped it to the oil drain on the turbo! useing that new hose i brought! that was eazy!

Trouble iv had? water leaking from the banjo bolts! (note for any 1 attempting this! buy new washers)

after putting everything back together i turn it on... oil leaking from the feed line! on the banjo bolt!! so i tighten it up? leaks slower... tighten it again? leaks more! so the cars still at my mates work shop wating for me to buy some washers!

should have it finished buy tomorrow! then on to the dyno!

and for all the wankers befor! i dont want to take my car to a mechanic. i prefer to do all my own work! my car was compleatsly stock when i brought it, all work have been dun buy me! thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...