Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You cut the sensor out of the std rb25 AFM and you put the sensor in to a 3in pipe because the std one is 2.5in so this means that less air will go past the sensor,has anyone done this before.

Similar to what Autospeed did except they used a seperate bypass pipe then the digital fuel adjuster to get the A/F mixtures correct.

In theory it should work the same way, just don't damage the AFM hotwires!

You cut the sensor out of the std rb25 AFM and you put the sensor in to a 3in pipe because the std one is 2.5in so this means that less air will go past the sensor

umm... no it doesnt

have you looked at an AFM before?

You'll see that changing the diameter wont affect it at all as the AFM wire is in the middle of the AFM itself.

The amount of air going isnt going to change

I think it would, wouldn’t the wire measure the air and then calculate that by 2.5'' pipe

so if the pipe was 3'' the air would measure the same but there would be more air in the 3'' pipe then the 2.5'' pipe.??

I'm just guessing..

area of a 2.5" pipe = 31.6cm2

area of a 3" pipe = 45.5cm2

the bigger pipe will flow more air, but since the sensor only reads what goes though the little hole it sits in, then calculates how much air that is for the designated size of the pipe, when you put it into a bigger pipe it throws the calculations out and you end up with leaner mixtures.

as has been said, the AFM wire will indeed sense less amount of air, but all this will do will make the car run leaner as it will add less fuel. without tuning it would be useless. and given you'd have to tune, it makes sense to go z32 if you are going the whole hogg

btw.. nissan AFMs use a hot wire with variable resistances, right?

but since you generally have to run some form of either piggyback or full ecu to run a z32, i don't think that leaning out would be an issue since you have to get it tuned for the afm either way.

personally i'd just get an ecu that uses a map sensor.

just know about this a while ago....

found a webpage that did this...and in the same time...upgraded his injectors...

so i think there wouldnt be any problem if u cut off the AFM and fit it in a bigger pipe and in the same time fit in a bigger injectors....and tune it back to optimal settings....

i just dont see a problem with this MOD...

plus...u can save some cash....for budget drifters....

Edited by r32gt_rb20

Bah, pack of gurls! =)

There’s a risk, but in reality if you seal the sensor to the pipe well ( careful not to use any noxious adhesives that will eat the PCB) and tune it properly, ( piggy back, FC) it would be well impressive to get it working.

Perfect for the budget conscious.

That said, for $300 there’s no way i would risk my motor :D

M

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
×
×
  • Create New...