Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys,

I've found out that it would cost the same if not more to build a RB30DE instead of just putting the turbo (RB25DET) engine in.

What was suggested was to bore out the current block to 3L, saving a lot of hassle of getting the whole 3L engine in and connected to everything.

  • 4 weeks later...
Originally posted by NS2500

Thanks guys,

I've found out that it would cost the same if not more to build a RB30DE instead of just putting the turbo (RB25DET) engine in.

What was suggested was to bore out the current block to 3L, saving a lot of hassle of getting the whole 3L engine in and connected to everything.

I seriously doubt that you can bore a RB25 out to 3 litres.

  • 2 weeks later...

i am planning on building an RB30DE, with forged pistons, etc. etc.

planning on about $7000 for the complete rebuild...do it properly the first time i say. i have an R31, so an atmo belongs in the engine bay, when it comes time to get an R32 gts-t, i can just swap engines over and put a HKS 3037 turbo kit on the side. :P

cheers

Linton

$7000 seems pretty expensive, I've got a couple of quotes and I was looking at $4000 - $4500. The quote for $4500 included being bored out to 3.2 litre, and new pistons (they weren't forged though).

Look around, you could get a turbo fitted as well for $7000

yeh, i probably could turbo it....but then im in a different league, i have to compete with other turbos, with bigger or multiple turbos.

i want a TOUGH atmo, not a mild one, a bulletproof, fully worked RB30DE, so when i drive away from some turboed cars, i can say its not turbo and thats how i wanted it.

$7000 is including the other things, like gearbox, tailshaft and diff rebuilds aswell as brakes.

would beefed up R31 brakes do the job?? or would i have to get the import struts and put R32 GTR brakes on???

cheers

Linton

  • 4 weeks later...

RB series engines though not quite as long in their stroke as L series engiens were good for torque. Which is why they take well to turbo set-ups. Twin cam versions of the same engines had better breathing abilities which enables greater high end performance. This can be substituted by proper head work to allow greater flow with optimised back pressure. I've built a few RB's and L's and proper head work coupled with a good quality engine management can yield +250kW figures N/A while still using stock bottom end components. Be carefull who & what you throw money at cause somethimes they're lost causes.

  • 4 weeks later...

reliability is a completely different thing. That depends on how you drive it, and i'm not talking just revs. I'm talking lauches, changes, loading, heat (oil & water), maintainance, everything. Compression ratio will also depend on what fuel your going to use. Its near impossible to go past 12:1 without using very high octane fuel. How you intending on changing compression ratio? What ever it is make sure the valves have clearance to the pistons. Would suggest staying around 10 or 11:1 for 200kW.

If done correctly, you can easily maintain excellent reliability and good drivability.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...