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ok ok

the series 2 had 2 choices, H1 55W for the povvo models and Xenon D2R 35W (±4300K?) for the others, the reason they are a lower wattage is you get a lot more light from a xenon than a halogen. I'm guessing if you put a 55w xenon bulb in there it would tax your system and blow a fuse.

Parkers: Series 2 use a very common T10 fitment. The best thing to fit here would be a LED. there are plenty on the market but I suggest you stay away from the cheap ones. I use Carmate and have not seen better.

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you will get a bit for the stock set up if you want to sell it... its just matter of snipping the pos neg to the ballast... taking it and the globe out to sell... and re wiring the new ones back in... you will need some h1 globe holders tho... i have a set of stock xenon globes here D2R 35w with very good visability... you could jump on to the phillips website or somthing and get some 55w or somthing i spose???

Ah okay thanks for that. Well once I understood the difference between the lights when I went down to repco, i can now understand why all the confusion. Stageas with stock xenons use the D2R 35W while the povvo models or the one's complianced properly have the H1 55w.

What i do want however, is a brighter D2R 35w (6000k for example), but i was qouted in excess off $200 for replacement bulbs, so i have otherr priorities atm.

check ebay for bulbs

i was reading this last night and had a squiz, picked up some 100w hb3's for my high beams for $6 inc postage

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...#ht_3020wt_1167

but there are also heaps of ppl selling d2r replacement bulbs

they may not be as high quality as stock ones but if they last half as long its a good buy, plus you can get the colour you want

http://shop.ebay.com.au/i.html?_nkw=d2r+bu...r&_osacat=0

I purchased a few weeks ago for my S2 factory xenon equipped stag these replacement bulbs (D2R 6000k 55w)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=290355352914

They arrived in around 2 weeks in great condition and are working fine so far, the bulb colours are almost spot on and the 55w bulbs are perfect and not too bright at all (you may need to wind down the headlights manually by their adjustment "screws" to fine tune the beam)

I purchased a few weeks ago for my S2 factory xenon equipped stag these replacement bulbs (D2R 6000k 55w)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=290355352914

They arrived in around 2 weeks in great condition and are working fine so far, the bulb colours are almost spot on and the 55w bulbs are perfect and not too bright at all (you may need to wind down the headlights manually by their adjustment "screws" to fine tune the beam)

Thanks heaps mate, I know it might be a bit odd and off trouble, but you wouldn't be able to take a photo of how well the lights light up the road, just so i can compare it to the stick bulbs? Im thinking if there 55W and stock are 35W 4300k, they must show up a fair deal more...

Thanks heaps mate, I know it might be a bit odd and off trouble, but you wouldn't be able to take a photo of how well the lights light up the road, just so i can compare it to the stick bulbs? Im thinking if there 55W and stock are 35W 4300k, they must show up a fair deal more...

No Probs, if i get a chance tonight ill take some

  • 5 months later...
I took my fog light bulbs out to find the yellow lenses,just wanted to find out if any one has had the guts to smash them out .

there should be little screws, there was in mine

i have my yellow lenses downstairs

there should also be a metal shield over the front of lens, i took mine out and it gave me a bit more light

there should be little screws, there was in mine

i have my yellow lenses downstairs

there should also be a metal shield over the front of lens, i took mine out and it gave me a bit more light

how do you actually get the foggy's out of the front bar itself?

i think i'll look at upgrading these, and throwing some HIDs in the driving lights once i work out how to mount them now that the cooler is in their original place

in regards to front fog lights, they are supposed to be yellow, yellow does not create a reflective wall in fogs that normal lights do, so in fog conditions you need the yellow lights.

yellow shines through fog by i think it was 10 times further than the standard lights.

if you drive in fog, with your normal lights on, you will have a major problem driving.

i remember back in germany during winter when its like -20 in the morning, when its dark you can not physically drive with normal lights.

it is impossible to see though a wall of white fog.

but it is illegal to drive with fog lights on during normal conditions because of how bright they are.

also to improve my night vision at night i bought night vision goggles :) jks

i got a 8000k hid globes

not foggy or -20degrees round here all that often :)

and 8000k!!? they are actually weaker than stock lights, and will be rubbish in the wet.

do some reading at www.theretrofitsource.com

i bought a Infiniti FX-R bi-xenon retro fit kit off these guys and did a lot research etc, and anything abouve 5000k is just a waste of time.

ooooh, i seee. when i bought the car it had the 8000k hid globes in it, the xenon ones. wish i could get bixenon, would be so much nicer.

haha, and yeah i know it wont get -20 here, just used it as an example.

but when i was down in ACT for hunting 2 months ago, i went out at about 9am in the morning and it was fogged up to the sh*t, i could not see anything.

eventhough it only hit like -3 but still. also this was mountain range

so most people have purpose built 4wd for these situations and not stageas:p

this was down in Wee Jasper.

i still have videos of the fog too. looked creepy.

i read an article on yellow vs white light in fog

light is light no matter what colour it is and its wavelength doesn't change much so yellow wasn't found any more effective than white fogs

fog lights are also wide spread and designed for other cars to be able to see you

and, in qld, yellow is a reserved colour for emergency vehicles - racq, tow trucks etc

  • 3 months later...

It's true that yellow penetrates no better than white, perhaps the early producers of fog lights misunderstood Rayleigh scattering which occurs at the atomic/molecular scale and incorrectly applied it to the far larger fog vapour droplets.

However our eyes are more sensitive to some colours than others, this is the reason (good) ski goggles are tinted yellow, this filters out colours towards the blues and enhances contrast by filtering light towards the region our eyes are most sensitive and away from the blueish tint of sunlight. The yellow filters (or older tinted globes) do the same, the light appears brighter to other motorists due to it contrasting the fog. White light in white fog appears duller, where as yellow light in white fog appears brighter (despite less light actually being delivered by filtering out the shorter wavelengths). But from the driver's perspective it will look like less light is given out, because that's what is really happening.

It all depends if you want to see more, or want to be seen. 3000K HID foggies would be nice, the best of both worlds, plenty of light output and visibility to other cars (and no ugly yellow tinge when off).

have read a few people talking about the 55W D2R globes - these will be no brighter than your standard 35W globes unless you have 55W ballasts.

you can run 55w ballasts on a 35W globe and get much brighter output, but it will reduce the lifespan of the globe significantly.

i wouldnt recommend going a 55W in the S2 lowbeam anyway. the housing is not a true projector housing and it just doesnt focus the beam well enough. the cut off is there, but barely. i think with an even brighter than stock globe you would run the risk of creating excessive glare. if you have driven a projector equipped car like a Honda S2K or any late model VW or mercedes you will see what a true HID pattern should look like.

correctly designed projector beam with HID

cutoff1.jpg

VS

incorrect application of HID in a reflector type housing

beam.JPG

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