Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello gentlemen, my mate is buying my rb20 off me and he wants to no wat car he can put it in that will go in without much fuss.

heres wat i thought would be good, but correct me if im wrong.

datson 1200

gemini

there the only two i can think of, if anyone has any other ideas would be great

cheers

vando :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145142-rb20-into-wat-car/
Share on other sites

RB motor into a datsun 1200 or a gemini not much fuss?? ;)

Easiest car to put it in (other than a Cefiro or something) would be a VL <smirk>

I guess he is wanting to put it in a smallish car and have a pocket rocket? LJ Torana :)

my mate has one in his torana, just simple mods, 3' turbo back exhaust, front mount, 12psi of boost! and faaaaarrrk does it haul arse

kingy how was it, $$$ wise, was it harsh on the pocket. dnt mind spendin the money but not a ridiculous amount.

luvin it simmo. its goin real nice now its done the first 1000km.

did you find a 25? lucky bugger. you are gonna love the extra torque. my mate just spent a fortune on his rb20 trying to make it quick, and it is, but you just cant get the torque.

A mate has an RB25 in his LX Torana, it's running and driving but has been off the road for the last 7yrs, just getting the suspension sorted. The car has upwards of $30k invested in it and now he wants to sell me the 25 and put a v8 back in it!

If it's only an RB20 though I think you would be better off going with the LJ, they weigh slightly over 1000kg and would go like a shower of shiz with an RB20 in it.

Depends if you want one licensed or not.. I had a rolling shell in my driveway that was in the perfect condition to start a project on (interior was fully stripper, body was half prepped, needed some weldeding still) sold it to some random for $300 because I needed the room (had just bought the R32 ;)).

Just remember that it's going to be an old car and will probably be a bit rotten, unless you can find one that someone has already put the effort into. Either way, they're a nice simple car to work on and they pwned Bathurst with a 170kW 202, drop an RB20 in it and get some nice suspension (I think Pedders did my mates' sis' LJ for a lot less than $1000 for full race shiz) and it will pwn.

Edit: when it comes to old Holdens, the Quokka is your best friend :)

Edit#2: ROFL quick look on quokka.com.au and I found this..

TORANA LJ GTR, turbo charged, in storage for 25 yrs, ex Wanneroo race car, lots of XU1 options, 14" mags, over $12,500. Mrly. 0419-445-532

But this is probably more suited..

Torana 1973 lj 2850, 4 door, straight 6. running condition, un-licenced. $900 ono

If you want a 2dr then start jacking the price.. even a good condition licensed 4dr is going to cost a few grand.

Edited by bubba
yeah man spendin 10k all up already got other mods on my car already so the rest can be spent on turbo ect. wat the plan for the 26.

yeah 10k is what is spent all up. that got me some second hand 18's as well though.

Im now regretting not just using a 25 and spending the remaining money on aftermarket turbo etc. it think that woulda given a higher HP figure for the same price, but it all a big learning experience.

not too many plans for the 26 for a while. just another tune on the microtech so its sitting on 340rwhp and gettin better fuel consumption.

Back on topic: as someone mentioned above, old s13's are gettin cheap as. from what ive heard there isnt huge dramas gettin rb20s in them. that would be a screamer.

I have heard a couple of people say they handle like a boat with more weight forward of the front wheels.. but I have never driven an RB powered silvia/180 so I can't really say.

You know in Japan they race Supras with 4cyl's in them? Wayne Gardner actually drives one (or did) out of Tom's garage. Anyone ever thought of putting an SR in a skyline?:D I've seen a Gen3 in an R33 at last years Ford vs Holden show, now that's class! 400rwhp 5.7L v8 in an R33 :D

hey simor32, he bought a 32 half cut with all the wiring loom and everything, basically he had to gut the whole torana and prep it cause it was an old car! He did all the work himself so wasnt to expensive! Suppose if you got someone to do it, it would cost heaps...though if you can do yourself i would!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...