Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Stagea is arriving on the boat in Perth on the 11th of December and i hope to pick it up on the 12th. I really want to drive it straight to the licencing centre and get the plates. I heard you have to wait all day at Welshpool. Any suggestions from those in WA where to take the car to minimise time and hassle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145381-licensing-my-new-stag/
Share on other sites

our two stageas got done at welshpool..we got there early in the morning and were home couple hours later after everything had been check and plates issued and everything else :O if your taking it straight from the boat to the licensing centre make sure you have a temp permit..dont want to get pulled over by the cops :blink:

yes u need the permit its about $15 to get one and u can speed everywhere with no plates on and get flashed by multinovas and no one gives a shit haha, also dont goto warwick pits as they are wankers and ive heard welshpool and east perth are reasonable and not picky as hell. allow a few hours at the pits and get there early as suggested.

I have put a couple of cars and bikes over the pits at Kelmscott over the last few years and I have always found them really easy to deal with, and the guys that I have dealt with all seem to be really clued in to what they are doing. Where ever you decide to go, just remember that your attitude will have a large part to play in exactly how anal they will be, so play nice, use your manners and you will be fine.

i went over in oconnor it only took 1 hour of waiting and the actual inspection took 10 mins total

make sure you have the ORIGINAL copy of your invoice from the supplier in japan they were really anal about it no copies or printouts

depends on the officer inspecting your car and your attitude mine was passed with 18 inch rims on it and he told me that as it was a personal car and not a dealers car he would pass it but technically its a fail as its not stock

on the transport website there is a list of all the places that do it that are private contractors they would probably be easier to go through

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...