Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Works a treat!

Chirps 1->2 shifts on smooth concrete.

Much tighter gear changes. Hardly noticable slight clunks when taking it easy. Shifts are almost instant. Will keep you all posted how the shifts work when I take it to the strip, but definatly a worthwhile upgrade for the automatic transmission.

I did it at home on jack stands, pisses fluid all over the place and there are so many damn bolts holding in the valve body.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145467-mv-automatics-shift-kit/
Share on other sites

  AlexCim said:
Works a treat!

Chirps 1->2 shifts on smooth concrete.

Much tighter gear changes. Hardly noticable slight clunks when taking it easy. Shifts are almost instant. Will keep you all posted how the shifts work when I take it to the strip, but definatly a worthwhile upgrade for the automatic transmission.

I did it at home on jack stands, pisses fluid all over the place and there are so many damn bolts holding in the valve body.

Pictures?

:laugh: cheers :D

Mmmmmmm can you tell me how much one of these kits are, how quickly does it change? Standard takes about 3 secs doesnt it? PM me if you dont want to post it on here. I have auto R34 and would be interested in this upgrade one day??

Got a few videos, some are quite shakey but thats coz of you SK and you kit, and a few are shakey on gear changes....thanks MV :)

Some are WOT, some are normal driving. Obviously the revving in the background will tell you what is what :ninja:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEBcaneDUZg

No offence to the guys with Skylines posting up in this thread, but I made the thread in the Stagea section for two particular reasons. We have heavy cars and we have 4wd cars. For this reason, I wouldnt compare the performance of a shift kit on a skyline to one on a Stagea.. sorry if that sounds rude but you understand I'm sure.

Comparing the shifts to the stock one is not possible. The stock shifts are just so damn slow, mine used to rev freely for about 1-2 seconds before it grabbed 2nd. Now as you can see in the videos its almost instant. I HIGHLY reccomend the upgrade to anyone with a Stagea.

The chirpies are coming from the front wheels too, not the rear.

Cost was $440 delivered including a service kit (new sump gasket and filter). The VB was 350, shipping 30, service kit 30 and GST on top (Yes, shifty bugger qouting GST free)......definatly worth it though. Honestly.

As far as the install, I will do a write up next week for everyone, the instructions that Mike gave were borderline, but I managed to guess it through :laugh:

I also find the auto goes through gears a HEAP more. Its always going between 3rd and fourth now, and its really quick too. I find it locks the converter up more easily now too. I can get lock up at 60kph and push just a slight bit of boost (around 0psi-1psi). Kick downs improved a lot and the throttle response from the gearbox has improved greatly too. I plant my foot, off i go. No more, plant, slip, slip, slip, kinda grab, go.

The job took me 4h, that was ciggie breaks, scratching my head breaks, waiting for my mate to come around mid way through breaks etc.

I could now do it in about 2-2.5h flat out. Maybe even less. DEFINATLY less with a hoist :woot:

Nice effort Alex. Loving the S1.5 youve got there mate.

Yeah my mech mate Ryan who did my turbo last week has done a few MV shift kits, like you mentioned the fluids goes everywhere when opening it up for the first time - hope you didnt catch tooo much of it in ya hair!

I was going to dismiss the MV valve body upgrade and not be bothered, but this thread may have changed my thoughts.

Meh, oil cooler and filter relocation kit is next job on the cards, then perhaps the shift kit.

edit: wow - no "flare" of the rpm when WOT. nice.

I was one of the benchwarmers watching alex fitting the kit. I have never seen so many f**king bolts holding together something, EVER!! The Nissans autos are vastly different from the Toyotas!!

Goes very well with the shift kit, very positive shift.

Alex do a ECU reset when its a bit cooler then take it for a boot! Itll chirp even harder!

Very nice mate,

Now how long will the box last??? I hope it does because I would like shifts like that in mine...

(Haven't forgotten about you either, will get back to you tomorrow)

Cheers

Luke

I've also got the MV automatics shift kit installed in my s2 stagea so it also has tiptronic, which is greatly improved.

Being in SA I actually got it installed AT MV automatics. Cost me $440 and that includes a transmission service - which normally costs around $150 for a quality service. So for the money it is very good value.

It still drives very very smooth if you want to, or will slam into gear if you push it hard.

The difference from stock is pretty easy to imagine. When you go to kick back a gear you put your foot down to the floor. Then there is a short delay while the gearbox ecu works out what gear you want, and then bang, you're instantly in the gear. I'd guess that the delay is about 1/2 a second or less.

Its not the same as a manual by any means but sure is a lot better than the stock auto. The main thing is that its not at all rough and you basically only feel a clunk if you change gears at high revs...

As far as how long the box will last, I was told that this upgrade actually strengthens the gearbox... :woot:

no chirpies for me though... :(

Edited by pixel8r
  agent_felix said:
would you need one of these in a tiptronic? my guess is yes?

it makes the gearchanges much quicker and snappier. :)

and when just cruising around I can slightly feel the 1st to 2nd gearchange but the later gearchanges are smooth enough to be unnoticeable. :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...