Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay guys. Well unfortunately the other day I got a nail in the rear driver tire on my car and it cant be plugged.

Currently I am running Bridgestone Potenza GIII 245/40/ZR18 all around. Only problem is that they never brought the GIII to the USA. So I have to go with a different tire.

The Bridgestone Potenza RE750 was recommended to me as a good replacement. The issue is that the tires on my car now are damn near brand new, so I dont want to buy 4 new tires. However since they dont make the exact model I have over here in the US, I really feel more comfortable changing out both rear ones instead of just one. Since the tread pattern on the tires will be different. I do want to at least keep all 4 tires a similar brand and type however. Which is why I was going to stay with the Potenzas.

Anyway, I figure since I am ordering 2 new rear tires, I might as well get something as wide as possible. I do a LOT of racing and any added traction would be great. As I said above, I am currently running 245/40/ZR18 tires on R34 V-Spec Wheels all around. I have 2 main concerns however.

1. I have read before that due to the ATTESSA system you normally want to keep your wheels the same size all around because if you dont you get bad readings. However, are they referring to actual height or width? I mean do I need to just keep 245/40 all around for now? Or can I run 245/40 on the front and then run 265/35 on the rears?

2. From what I have read, it appears that a 265/35 tire is really the widest size you can run on R34 wheels without any modifications. Is this indeed correct? If not, what is the widest size you CAN run without modification?

Thanks a lot for the help guys. It is greatly appreciated. I really need to get these tires ordered today so I can get my baby back up and running. But before I did I wanted to confirm a few things to maintain optimal performance. Thanks.

-Sayajin

Here's an option that you may think about, not saying it's the best idea, but it's definitely the cheapest.

Take it to another tyre shop and ask them to put a plug in it and tell them that it is for track only use. They should still be alright with doing it if it's track only use. And then just drive around on it normally. If as you've said it's just a nail, then it should be fine. I've done this with plenty of tyres and it has lasted ages.

Another option, which would be better is to get a major repair done on the tyre where they vulcanize a patch into the sidewall. If the tyre is brand new, the guy should've mentioned this. Well my store sends off a lot of tyres for major repairs, so once again, I'm makin a couple of assumptions

depends what type of racing you are doing. if it's circuit work then neither of those tyres are suited at all. if your talking drag, then you'd be best off buying another set of rims and put some drag tyres on.

you need to keep the rolling diameter the same all 'round. there is a fair bit of difference in diameter from 245/40 to 265/35 (98 vs 92 sidewall) so not a good idea.

Well the reason it couldnt be repaired it seems is not only the nail. There also appears to be a bubble in the side of the tire. I was told that if they patched the tire it would almost DEFINETLY blow because of the bubble.

-Sayajin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...