Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just got car back from mechanics today fixing the headgasket i blew

..

thats all sweet

but driving the car around today for a few hours, and the change into 3rd gear from 2nd and then the change from 3rd to 4th gear were extreamly stiff.. andyways ... cruising up a steep hill in 3rd, need the exra oumfff to get up the hill.. so i go to change down to 2nd

and i get nothing... i got the car out of 3rd gear, but then i couldnt get it back into any gears what so ever

i managed to get the stick into what felt like 1st gear... but the car didnt go anywhere... it jus reved out

initially i thought i' done the clutch, but after a couple of minuted i manged to well and truely force it inot what feels like 3rd gear and limp it the 4km home... was just lucky i didnt get any red traffic lights lol

what could it be causing me to not be able to get the car into gear

i know the mechanics didnt do anything, because i was helping them do the head gasket replacement the whole time and nothing was touched

any ideas?

-Ruffels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145694-blown-gear-box/
Share on other sites

yeah cluch is fine still nice and solid like normal

i was there helping the mechanic (girl friends dad) fix the headgasket, gearbox wasnt touched and engine was left in place

although not long after i got it back the car would not move while turning at low speeds (car is a r32 gts-4) and the torque gauge was going off tap

i didnt want to have to deal with it for the time being so i just pulled the fuse and ran the car in 2wd and those problems stopped

that night the problems i mentioned in my first post happened

the slave cyl reivour is plenty full and i even drove home in 3rd gear, so the clutch itself is fine too.

just getting in and out of gears was the issue

just went out to the car a minute ago to see if i could move the gear stick... nothing pretty much the only movement i get from it is a slight up and down movement, cant even get that nice side to side movement you get while in neutral

is there a selctor or linkage inside the box that could be broken... i have no idea whats going on!

thanks

-Ruffels

Edited by Ruffels
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145694-blown-gear-box/#findComment-2723045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...