Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how are ya guys, now im facing kind of a hold up with my rb rebuild. i dont know what type of rods i should use. i kno there is about a 2 grand diff in price including balancing etc. but i am still not sure what i should use.

i will be say chasing after 350 4wkws as a ball park figure (which is about 400 rwkw's i think) and i really only want to rebuild this engine once.

what should i use?

cheers guys

Edited by Turbz_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145813-standard-vs-h-or-i-beam-rods/
Share on other sites

For that much hp you should be using aftermarket rods.

The differences between H & I patern rods (In terms of performance) is less than some people make out. H pattern (for the same weight) arguably have a lower rotational inertia hence are favoured for high revving motors. I beam rods have a greater stiffness in beding along the crank axis. Best bet is to find one you like (in terms of stated strength) & price.

Stock rods are more than adequate

I ran 369rwkw/24psi on stock GTR rods for around 6 months. No issues.

I know of people making a fair bit more and for a fair bit longer :thumbsup:

Hmm, I take the view that for the kind of money you need to spend to get 500rwhp or thereabouts & if you are opening up the engine why wouldn't you spend the extra for the rods?

But like you say it can be done on an unopened motor or with crack tested rods.

and if i keep the car i really dont wanna have to open it up again to replace inturnals after they died from to much power. if i get the power i want. just thought i better add that bit

Hmm, I take the view that for the kind of money you need to spend to get 500rwhp or thereabouts & if you are opening up the engine why wouldn't you spend the extra for the rods?

But like you say it can be done on an unopened motor or with crack tested rods.

I take the view, spend the money where its required, not where you dont need too.

Most people are on a budget of some kind in most cases.

All well and good if you dont have a budget, but if you can save a few bob, why not.

I didnt say an un-opened motor at all :P

My example, and references were to motors that have ALL been opened up.

The all run a set of forged pistson, stock rods and stock cranks plus everything else that goes into a rebuild.

My car itself was an RB25 with GTR rods.

Personally if i could afford it id deffinately get a new set of rods just for the self reasurance that the engine will be up to the task. Im not debating whether the standard rods would be good enough or not. Though myself i wouldnt want to push standard items that far after spending huge dollars on everything else in a setup that could achieve that sort of power.

Id spend the extra cash sell the standard rods for a bit towards them and feel a little more confident when i put my foot down that all will be alrite.

Just depends if you have the cash...

If you get "crack testing" done, make sure you know exactly what type of tests will be performed.

Personally I would only recommend x-ray testing as magnetic particle testing, although cheaper, isn't as reliable for detecting stress fractures on for complex shapes like rods.

so looks like standard rods are stronger then i first through. i may just use a new set of 26 rods in my rebuild then. save me 2 grand and buy a haltech insted

Edited by Turbz_13

my budget is about 10k, would have be fine and could have dropped h beams in if they didnt find a few other things wrong. so now i need to do the best possible for the cheapest!!! with the power figure still in mind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to !
    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
×
×
  • Create New...