Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Well its been 5 months since i started the Rb26/30 build & its about time to fire her up! :thumbsup:

I've got a few questions for you all, if you could give me some feedback i'd appreciate it:

1) Oiling: What process should i go through to make sure theres good pressure upon starting it (i.e priming the pump, turbo's etc) and wats the best way to go about it.

2) Will it be alrite to start the engine with just the dumps on, or should i wait until i get the front pipe made up? Reason i ask that one, is i'm putting the engine in at my place, and then towing it to the exhaust shop for the front pipe to be made, and then its off to the workshop to get tuned.

That's all i can think of now, if theres anything else i should know, please let me know :laugh:

cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145870-fireing-up-a-new-engine/
Share on other sites

1. Disconnect the CAS, and crank the engine until the oil light goes out, and the gauge shows pressure. Then you know there is oil around the engine, and you can get oil pressure. Then reconnect CAS and fire away.

2. Even at idle, an engine with basically no exhaust makes a hell of a racket (I know, I did it when I fitted a little L20ET to my R30).

When i get my new engine in this is what I will do.

Connect the fuel line that goes to the rail back to the return line to the tank (no fuel getting to injectors)

Disconnect the CAS

take the cam covers off - pour oil over both of the cams (not too much just to soak them a little)

take all the spark plugs out and turn the motor over untill you can see the oil light either turn off or flash a little (some oil lights stay on and do nothing)

keep turning the motor over without any compression or spark or fuel untill you can see lots of oil activity in the top end. once this is done you should be right.... (put rags around incase you get oil splashing)

When i get my new engine in this is what I will do.

Connect the fuel line that goes to the rail back to the return line to the tank (no fuel getting to injectors)

Disconnect the CAS

take the cam covers off - pour oil over both of the cams (not too much just to soak them a little)

take all the spark plugs out and turn the motor over untill you can see the oil light either turn off or flash a little (some oil lights stay on and do nothing)

keep turning the motor over without any compression or spark or fuel untill you can see lots of oil activity in the top end. once this is done you should be right.... (put rags around incase you get oil splashing)

are you looping the fuel line to stop fuel going in the motor???

if so, when the cas is disconnected your injectors wont pulse, so it will save you looping the fuel line.

cheers

Jeremy

about the exhaust part of things..

noise levels, obviously theyre going to be huge and its gona run a bit rough but who cares, wont cuase any probs.

its a bit bodgy but i drove my car down to the exhaust shop about 3kms away after a rebuils with a dodgy peice of dump pipe, sounded like a truck and went like shit but who cares if your just firin it up!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstah, no, coilovers aren't illegal, especially as a bolt straight in. The illegal part will be if they're altering suspension geometry beyond factory limits, or the ride height is not legal.   Sounds like the blue slipper just didn't want to deal with any later possibility of mods appearing on the car.
    • The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station.  This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.
    • Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors?  With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible?
    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW ) Edit: I checked. They aren't. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-infosheet-light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...