Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

theres this guy (cousin of a friend) who recently bought a brand new Commodore GTS for $60,000, and he kept asking about my R34 GTR, like kw, how fast etc. Today i said to a friend, tell ur cousin we'll have a lil drag and he'll find out himself. She rang the commodore guy, he said that his car has 250kw and my GTR only 200kw, but if i dont have twin turbo, then dont waste his time. That got my adrenaline running and its on. But i dont know anything about these commodore GTS? i'm pretty sure these SS/Monaro/GTS/GTR holdens have 5.7L and can have up to 300kw at the wheel (his is 250kw). How will i go against him? I'm pretty confident i can kill him at the start, what about on the roll?

interesting to hear from u guys,

:wub:

Edited by andz69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146061-holden-commodore-gts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my mate has a HSV GTO LE (Limited Edition - $90k when came out), which came out 285kw stock, and with a few air mods and exhaust it was just over 320, pulling 257 rwkw.

when my car was just under 200rwkw (and only rwd) from stationary, he would kill me untill my boost came on, and i would then keep with him till abot 3rd gear then would slowly break away (v8).

On rolling at about 30kmh, would b side by side, slowly creap up, then the GTO would pull away slowly after 4th gear.

Keep i mind his was AUTO and mine was MANUAL, hence the beter take off.

With the 4wd and the extra kw, im sure ull bea this GTS, as the GTS is heavier than the GTO and my mates GTO was a LE with extra sports features and weight less than th stock GTO.

The GTR is dead stock?

Time to quickly slap an exhaust and dial some boost in to it. :)

Do the R34's still have an increased boost level by simply removing the restrictor?

Either way just big launch then back off at 100km/h before he has time to realise he's actually catching you.

My opinon is you will rip is balls off

No way a sluggish arse LS2 commodore can stay with a GTR from first to third gear

If this is on the street which I hope its not you wont get to the gears which the commy has an advantage

Just get a good launch

My 2 cents

my mate has a HSV GTO LE (Limited Edition - $90k when came out), which came out 285kw stock, and with a few air mods and exhaust it was just over 320, pulling 257 rwkw.

when my car was just under 200rwkw (and only rwd) from stationary, he would kill me untill my boost came on, and i would then keep with him till abot 3rd gear then would slowly break away (v8).

On rolling at about 30kmh, would b side by side, slowly creap up, then the GTO would pull away slowly after 4th gear.

Keep i mind his was AUTO and mine was MANUAL, hence the beter take off.

With the 4wd and the extra kw, im sure ull bea this GTS, as the GTS is heavier than the GTO and my mates GTO was a LE with extra sports features and weight less than th stock GTO.

that was the silver 1 wasnt it

i beet him on a launch and muffed 2nd but he still didnt run away from me

i say youll beet him

i once *couf* had a drag with like a VX SS LS1 edit and smashed him im sure you will do the same and you dont need to do 7000rpm launch a 5,500 is sufficent if my clutch wasnt on its way out i would come and *cough* join you

my mate has a HSV GTO LE (Limited Edition - $90k when came out), which came out 285kw stock, and with a few air mods and exhaust it was just over 320, pulling 257 rwkw.

nah just a GTS

anyway, just did a test run, launch at 6500 or so, i can smell a burning smell, is this an indication that my clutch is on its way out? or is this normal?

normal but anymore of those launches and its new clutch. go for twin plate if thats the case, saves you from having to change it in future. as for the challenge, you'll possibly get owned considering your is stock standard or at least break some parts.

Dont stock gtr34's run pretty low boost (like gtt's etc) standard? something like only 5-6psi?

Do they have a boost solenoid like the r33gtst/r34gtt's to bump up the boost to 7-8psi at high rpm?

sorry dont know much about gtr's boost specs except that they run fairly low boost standard, and ceramic turbos similar to (or the same as?) r34 gtt's.

Either way a few basic mods will see you matching the commo kw for kw and yours being at all 4.

Its pretty tough to beat a good awd launch so even if your car is slower (which i doubt), you'll still get plenty of lead from the launch :(

i dragged a mates VX GTS (300kw)

and had him the whole length, traction off the line and pulling away on him

my 32 Gtr has got bout 210rwkw

so i would say you could have him fairly easy but not if your clutch is on its way out

RellikZephyr

andz69, really need more details on the car for a proper comparison.

If his car has a genuine 250 rwkw, then it will be a war of traction. If he gets traction and it has the claimed power it will smash you in a stock 34GTR (unfortunately), but it won't be easy for him to do. If it makes the power it will be a genuine mid-low 12 second car.

With an R34GTR I wouldn't have thought you'd need to prove anything though, and people who talk about their cars like this guy seems to don't always have the gear to back it up.

Also, I hate haters of cars, and it sounds like this guy is a skyline hater.

$60k buys you a second hand GTS - a new E series is like 80k, and previous versions were more lke 90k+ when new.

Edited by chops

hes talking about the HSV VT GTO like the one in need for speed 3 isnt he? That thing was a beeeeeast. i loved driving it in that game lol. then i just used the 550 Modena my favourite car once i got that unlocked.

Id say cause of your awd and depending on how much of a fag he is and how excited... youll get him off the line and then head straight down. by the time ur 200 mtres away and his cars still spitting smoke on the starting line the race will be over.

.... why the f**k did he say "if you dont have twin turbo dont waste my time".... that seems like hes f**ken scared and just doesnt want to drag you by naming shit that your car HAS to have to give him a drag... "If your car doesnt have a rocket propelled grenade launcher on the front bumper then you wont be able to catch me" you should tell him.

Edited by SAZilla

Dude, You will smoke that commnwhore no ifs or buts!

My R32 GTR has been run against my mates modded VY clubsport R8 and let me tell you....

7000 rpm, step off clutch and wave bye bye....

He will not be able to pull back the six or so car lengths you have on him already!

Holdens make great TAXIS.

haha. yeh taxis... id like to see a wrx take on a skyline. who gives a shit about the commodore, waste of conversation. the 34 has already won.

Hmm skylines smoke most rexes, my mates in darwin was a wide bodied off its nut thing, dog box, ecu, turbo etc running like 22psi and i beat him running 12psi (bout 250rwkw but lol). And the rating in kw those commondores get is at the engine. And commondores are slow as nothing better than racing them and beating them with the wheels spinnin still lol, and some wanker in there 90k car getting beaten by a 20k "rice burner" that looks and goes better.

he said that his car has 250kw and my GTR only 200kw, but if i dont have twin turbo, then dont waste his time.

if he knew what a GTR was he would know it had twin turbo im sure that you would have nothing to worriy about untilk speed limiter kicks in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...