Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The NEO is obviously the pick, with the better VCT, bigger turbo, bigger rods and solid top end etc...

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Otherwise NEO all the way.

The NEO is obviously the pick, with the better VCT, bigger turbo, bigger rods and solid top end etc...

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Otherwise NEO all the way.

Totally Agree.

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Why? I think the NEO works better.

Coz unless you wanna spend the time f**king around getting VCT to work (oil feed etc), or getting rid of it then the NA RB25DE head is the way to go >_<

Hi All,

i thought it would be good to get your thoughts on this from you guys on which RB25 is the pick of them all cheers

Series 1 is heavier and contains more lugs to attach the chain to, therefore a much better boat anchor.

QED >_<

Edited by Gav

i thought the non neo motors were easier to get power out of since they didn't have as much pollution crap done to them. also thought the neo had a head that didn't flow as well (not sure if it was to do with cams, valves or general design), and smaller injectors.

but i may be wrong.

Edited by mad082

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...