Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Better Neorb25 Or Earlier Series 1&2 Engines

skyguy61

By skyguy61,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

The NEO is obviously the pick, with the better VCT, bigger turbo, bigger rods and solid top end etc...

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Otherwise NEO all the way.

`nigno Rising Star

`nigno

Posted
Posted
The NEO is obviously the pick, with the better VCT, bigger turbo, bigger rods and solid top end etc...

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Otherwise NEO all the way.

Totally Agree.

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET.

Why? I think the NEO works better.

Coz unless you wanna spend the time f**king around getting VCT to work (oil feed etc), or getting rid of it then the NA RB25DE head is the way to go >_<

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hi All,

i thought it would be good to get your thoughts on this from you guys on which RB25 is the pick of them all cheers

Series 1 is heavier and contains more lugs to attach the chain to, therefore a much better boat anchor.

QED >_<

Edited by Gav
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)

i thought the non neo motors were easier to get power out of since they didn't have as much pollution crap done to them. also thought the neo had a head that didn't flow as well (not sure if it was to do with cams, valves or general design), and smaller injectors.

but i may be wrong.

Edited by mad082

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...