Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

new plates... I boost

Dont worry eyelids getting back on soon, along with spoiler coming off again

Good idea...

If only we could use 7 letters, I can think of plenty with 7.

Anyway, I also bought two custom plates back in May:

gallery_46181_2588_6597.jpggallery_46181_2588_41850.jpggallery_46181_2435_2408.jpg

The 'WJ' were originally going onto the R34... but I liked the look of the Targa plates better :D

BTW - last time I checked, 'R34' was still available in Tassie.

I *nearly* ordered them but the Targa plates were half the price - and if I sell the R34, the plates would only suit another R34, so...

clean engine

well, had to take a wheel off today to check if it was leaking or if i drove over a nail cause my pump didn't work.

Didn't sound safe with the jack below it and i didn't want to take it any higher and place a stand below it so grabbed out a 18" SSR rim with 285 x 30 x 18 on it :D

There is a spacer in there.

I dont like the white on chrome.

Thoughts?

th_DSC06562.jpg

th_DSC06568.jpg

th_DSC06567.jpg

Edited by Owgasm
clean engine

well, had to take a wheel off today to check if it was leaking or if i drove over a nail cause my pump didn't work.

Didn't sound safe with the jack below it and i didn't want to take it any higher and place a stand below it so grabbed out a 18" SSR rim with 285 x 30 x 18 on it :whistling:

There is a spacer in there.

I dont like the white on chrome.

Thoughts?

th_DSC06562.jpg

th_DSC06568.jpg

th_DSC06567.jpg

your R34 looks...wierd? should paint the bottom lip or something and clear front indicators. cause looks like the front is higher then the rest of the car.

id stick with the old rims, black chrome lip, and maybe some c/f ganador mirrors

Yeah, its a 33 :thumbsup:

But possibly cause its on a hill, so the rear is experiencing my force downards.

The front looks odd cause theres no lower lip, i reckon any GT-R 34 requires the lower lip/diffuser, else it looks funny.

I've been looking for years, believe me i've noticed.

But i wouldn't paint it anyways :P

I prefer the black and chrome lip. These others wouldn't fit anyways, the rears are 335's.

Edited by Owgasm
and bakes, I LOVE your garage, so clean and simple :thumbsup: very jealous

Thanks buddy. I painted it just before I picked up the GTR. My missus laughed at me when I said I was going to paint the garage red (was a dirty white color before) but it came up sweet!

Hi Bryn, it's just the flash.

Would be good if the doors had lights instead of reflectors though.

yeah i remember when i got the car in 05, i took them off thinking the bulbs had blown but couldnt find anything :(

when i saw urs i was like :O no way lol

yeah i remember when i got the car in 05, i took them off thinking the bulbs had blown but couldnt find anything :(

when i saw urs i was like :D no way lol

Hehe :D

Yeah, I had much the same idea when I first got my 34 - I thought the bulbs had blown.

Ok, thought i'd post a couple of my pics of my GTT R34 ,, yes it is a GTS-R badge.

Top Secret GTR front bar and Z-Tune Bonnet

Sorry pics not best it was raining at the time.

July11-Skyline34.jpg

.

July11-Skyline34_2.jpg

.

July11-Skyline34_3.jpg

.

thanks for looking, just needs the top secret front diffuser lip

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...