Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howie, mesh it i reckon.... if you dont mind hiding it then saves it from larges stones and debris as well as stealthy.

Here a couple of mine with the mesh...

RSPEC I've got a Trust Spec R-HG it uses the same piping as standard smic, yours looks to be a tad bigger maybe it is the Spec V i think? How much did it cost cause thats a easy way unless you got photos of it before going on.

post-31217-1230105061_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1230105156_thumb.jpg

Wanted something small and efficient for response.. the hybrid has a nice fin design which directs air in the front then comes out a regular core on the back. Apexi stopped production of these items so it's been pretty hard sourcing one for me. Anyhow so long as it works well to reduce heat soak i'm happy.

Howie,

How much has it set you back (I'm shopping for turn-flow FMIC now) if you don't mind sharing, PM if you prefer.

And what power level is it good for?

Very lovely 34 you got there (been pondering getting a 34 lately).

Cheers

Grant

Wanted something small and efficient for response.. the hybrid has a nice fin design which directs air in the front then comes out a regular core on the back. Apexi stopped production of these items so it's been pretty hard sourcing one for me. Anyhow so long as it works well to reduce heat soak i'm happy.

totally getya. looks well made and seems to fit well. performance wise, its a good choice for response. i was just giving my opinon on the cosmetic aspect is all

Howie - paint the core! The end tanks make it look out of place; R34s deserve a big IC :) I hear your logic; but to be honest - even with my JJ FMIC under the 2.5L, response was pretty much the same as with the SMIC.

Might consider painting it down the track, but not really inclined to remove all that paint from the apexi core If I don't like it lol.

Oh btw, no cutting of the reo either :) So i've got a little room up top for my trans cooler.

bbtw, did you end up getting the rear diff for your car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...