Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My partner wouldnt do the sexy pose for me.. and someone had to do it.

Cut out my suggestive facial expression to keep this thread work safe.

car3t.jpg

Damn, I'm in love with your car. There's something just soo right about a clean, aesthetically stock BB gtr

Thanks Chris :)

They aren't bad rims Marko, not exactly the lightest wheels going around but they do look quite nice IMO

I'm thinking about changing to matte black Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15 all around...haven't seen too many 34 GTT's with RPF1's.

Thoughts or recommendations for other wheel upgrades?

how much effort do you think would be required to make an 18x9.5 +15 fit. im looking for new wheels but am wanting good traction as well as offset, so id be looking for something like a 255 on a 9.5 +20 but i fear it would take to much camber/guard work to get them to fit properly. anyone running a 255 on the front of a 34 gtt? otherwise id look at a decent 235 on a 9 +20, but does anyone know of anything comparable to say an xd9 in this offset? cheers

@Spark, nice yellow 34! Is that the 'DIY Lip' I see used all round, even on the skirts?? :P

Was wondering what they'd look like on the skirts if it really is so haha.

On another note, too many GTR's in this thread...

... making me jealous!

thanks for the kind words guys, makes me feel proud of my canary mobile :)

definitely is the El Cheapo DIY Lip kit all round lol turned out okay but im currently in the process of getting together a kit for it

so YAY or NAY for black RPF1's?

ahhbee: would take a bit and money to go into the front guards to make a 18x9.5 +15 fit with 255 tyres...a 235- sized tyre however, makes it a fair bit easier to fit.

I have a good mate with a GTT who is running 18x9.5 +15 all round with 235/40/18 tyres. Rolled guards, camber arms (mainly to go between track/street) and the slight stretched tyre make them fit quite nicely. I'd simply spend more on a nice, sticky 235 than a ok-ish 255 and be happy with that

This will answer your question :)

Matt black would really set it off!

I like these rims because they are very well priced and different to what you would expect to see on a skyline. If I had an r34, I'd run these wheels.

I was even thinking of buying a set for my 32 but they don't suit the car as much with the high detail and intricate design.

index-15.php

Edited by Marko R1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...