Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was talking to my mechanic about getting a PWR radiator for when my new motor goes in. (If if ever gets bloody finished...! :P )

While on the subject, we were also talking about getting an oil-cooler when he mentioned that PWR do "in-tank" versions.

His take on it was that not only would this be a really neat solution, that the water can actually help bring the oil up to operating temperature more quickly at start up, ~and~ does a great job of keeping the oil temps down when you're into it.

Has anyone had any experience on this?

I like it just from the aspect of less crap under the bonnet to deal with as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146598-in-tank-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites

If you flog the car on the track then get an air cooled oil cooler, for the simple reason that although water is more conductive, cooling with 25C air is more effective than cooling with 90C water.

If you're only doing a few hard laps and then taking a break then i don't see any problem, and have wondered about oil/water heat exchangers for the same reason of bringing the oil temp up from cold and providing some cooling benefit when warm.

Given that you're likely to be needing to scrub about 20 or maybe 30 deg.C out of the oil, the liquid-liquid route should be highly effective.

The trick will be to have a suitable specification for the core thickness: fin density (ie fins per cm) to allow good airflow through the core and satisfactory overall heat transfer.

Power output of the engine will have a significant bearing on how well this setup would work.

Given that you're likely to be needing to scrub about 20 or maybe 30 deg.C out of the oil, the liquid-liquid route should be highly effective.

The trick will be to have a suitable specification for the core thickness: fin density (ie fins per cm) to allow good airflow through the core and satisfactory overall heat transfer.

Power output of the engine will have a significant bearing on how well this setup would work.

Here Here - its one thing to shuffle the heat to the radiator/oil cooler, but over effectiveness depends on then getting enough air through the unit.

I think they are trick, as mounting suitably sized oil cooler in the front of a modern import like a Skyline can be difficult.

- Michael

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I got in touch with PWR to find out more.

PWR got back to me saying that in order to make a radiator for the GTR with the intank Oil cooler it would need to be a custom job with horizonal flow so that the tanks are on the side in order to accomodate the oil cooler.

The Radiator itself: $930.00inc

In-tank Engine Oil Cooler: $460.00inc

Spal 16" Thermo Fan to suit: $263.00inc

That just leaves the oil lines to be made up.

Its not 'cheap'. But then for a custom-made high performance radiator - its not bad either.

Certainly when I compare against just buying an HKS Oil Cooler and lines then it actually does look like very good value! ;)

I think the fact that it will keep the oil-temps and water temps closer to each other is a good idea, and of course installation will be heaps neater.

Thermo fans have given me trouble in the past, but that was many years ago, and maybe that was because they were not correctly specified. Hopefully this one they are matching up will easily keep up. I won't be spending any real time in heavy traffic and anything above 30km/hr won't need it anyway - so probably a good thing.

Think I might go for it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...