Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Air Con Problem

rgr34

By rgr34,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
Posted

I have a problem with my air con, it only blows out cold air when set at 18 degress. As soon as you adjust the temperature to 18.5 or above it changes to the heater setting. It stops blowing out cold air and starts to blow out warm air.

Has any one had this problem before? know what is causing it? or knows how to help? :action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146646-r34-air-con-problem/
Share on other sites
n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

Ok....hope this helps...I had the exact same problem..cold air at 18...then when 18.5 or 19 onwards it gets warm air...never really bothered me...until one day...was looking into my front bar...underneath the rego plates...there was a plug that was UNPLUGGED...didn't really know what it was but plugged it back to a socket around the same area...and what do u know....a/c climate control works fine now! It also used to automatically change the blowing mode all by itself...but after plugging tht plug back in...everything has been fine! Try it out and see if tht plug is unplugged...

rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no idea....cleaned plug and also cleaned temp sensor in dash with compressed air it was dusty as.... still not working properly...... on the top of the dash what is that sensor for.....??? circle looks like a solar panel on passenger side?

rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for that ran diagnostic test... in the temp display screen ambient sensor showed 19.5'c, in vehicle sensor showed 30'c and intake air temp sensor showed 17'c. so am i right in saying in vehicle sensor is not working as it was definatly not that hot? is this sensor the one to the left bottom of the steering wheel???

Edited by rgr34
rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

when the alarm was being installed i noticed black plastic tube no wires, asked installer what it was, he advised thats for climate control and plugged it back in...he advised he didnt unplug it. is that all it is or is there actual wire connector???? thanks in advance if anyone can confirm this! also got a flashlight and shined it into little grill.... there nothing there besides a small metal wire and round plastic surround... maybe there is no sensor in there already!

Edited by rgr34
rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi ppl today had some time removed lower dash and plastic face around dials, plastic tube was plugged in however wire connector was not... this most likely was left disconnected when i had tacho problems and took it back to car yard.... they just left it disconnected......... thanks 666dan & n15mo for helping out that aircon diagnostic tool is cool! alll back to normal now.......

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • Jarsky
      gauge needle removal

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Jarsky
      R33 GTST Axles

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Jarsky
      R34 Speedo not working after manual swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...